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The Boulderado

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Fistula T,TR 
Hell in a Bucket T,TR 
Ho Hum T,TR 
Idle Hands T,TR 
Jam It T,TR 
Jam It (Variation)  T 
Jazz on the Mezzanine S 
Mons T,TR 
Qs S,TR 
Suite 11 T,TR 

The Boulderado Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 39.99738, -105.41615 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 31,707
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
You & This Area
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BETA PHOTO: 1. Jam It, 8. 2. Ho Hum, 4. 3. Idle Hands, 6. 4. M...

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  • Description 

    This south-west facing wall is a [possible] place to take a first-time climber. The staging area and the anchor access make it a potentially hazardous climbing location for the unwary climber. It has a number of easy climbs in close proximity up a clean open wall. Anchor placements are a little tricky though; the ledge up top, while safe, does not afford many things to set up an anchor with. Recommend bringing some long slings, and some cams to do the job right. Top Rope access is via a trail up the talus just left of the rock.

    Be EXTREMELY careful accessing the anchors above these climbs if you toprope here. Lethal accidents have occurred too often here.

    L->R:

    A. Jam It, 8, 1p, gear or TR.
    AB. Jam It (Variation) , 5, 1p, 100', gear.
    B. Ho Hum, 4, 1p, 100', gear or TR.
    C. Idle Hands, 6, 1p, gear or TR.
    D. Mons, 5, 1p, gear or TR.
    E. Fistula, 3, 1p, 30', gear or TR.

    To the right on the block:

    F. Qs, 9+, 1p, 65', bolts.
    G. Jazz On The Mezzanine, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
    H. Hell In A Bucket, 12+, gear or TR.
    I. Suite 11, 11, 1p, 60', bolts & gear or TR.

    Getting There 

    About 8.8 miles up the canyon, 200 yards past Practice Rock, there is a large turn out on the left side of the road at the end of a sweeping right hand turn. The rock is directly across the road from the pullout.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.5 miles from here

    10 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',5],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in The Boulderado

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for The Boulderado:
    Jam It (Variation)    5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a     Trad, 1 pitch, 100'   
    Qs   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, TR, 1 pitch   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in The Boulderado

    Featured Route For The Boulderado
    Rock Climbing Photo: Megan cranking through the crux of her first climb...

    Mons 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : The Boulderado
    Climb the 3rd major crack from the left, on the main face. Jam through a small bulge, and continue straight up. It's a great beginner climb, and a good beginner trad lead as well. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of The Boulderado Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
    BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Dream Canyon to Easter Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: This is the new quick link anchor (same bolts) at ...
    This is the new quick link anchor (same bolts) at ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Boulderado after 2017 rockfall and scaling.
    BETA PHOTO: Boulderado after 2017 rockfall and scaling.
    Rock Climbing Photo: New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top ...
    BETA PHOTO: New toprope anchors on the Boulderado, at the top ...

    Comments on The Boulderado Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 31, 2017
    By Matt Shaffer
    Apr 11, 2017
    CONDITION REPORT 
    Please be careful if you are climbing at the Boulderado. There are a lot of large rocks and flakes coming off the wall currently due to winter melt and spring rain. I was climbing there the other day and pulled off 2 large flakes (one was about 60 pounds). On some of the ledges up the wall, there are large amounts of broken, loose rocks just laying on the ledges. Also, you can see a large section of the upper wall has recently broken off -- this section is a brown color and stands out against the granite. Belayers and all people down at the staging area should use extreme caution and be aware of falling rock!
    By Jim Cormier
    Jul 25, 2001
    Another great area for taking groups, especially beginners. Plenty of parking and easy approach. Need to be careful as the bottom has some exposure right above the road (it is possible to fall), same applies to setting up top rope anchors, as there is lots of loose footing. Bring long slings or static ropes to set up anchors.
    By Anonymous Coward
    May 18, 2002
    Definitely a summer crag. Went here in February and froze my ass off! No sun exposure in fall or winter. Cool place, altogether. Qs is an awesome route, even though I froze trying to climb it.
    By Richard Rossiter
    Dec 29, 2002
    A note on the history of the Boulderado. Up to 1987, no climbs had been described or published for this now popular formation. During the fall of 1987 when I was collecting data for Boulder Climbs North (published by Chockstone Press), I did solo all the routes shown in your photo. I also soloed the nice face left of Idle Hands. I do not know if any of these routes had been climbed previously. It really doesn't matter. I had never seen a soul on this rock, other than myself, until BCN came out the next spring. From that time on, it has been rather well frequented. I have thought more than once about placing some good bolt anchors at the top of each route, but have never gotten around to it. One reason is that for toproping, such anchors would be a little more dangerous to thread than the usual long slings from boulders and trees used until now.
    By Charles Danforth
    From: L'ville, CO
    Oct 20, 2003
    Great area and great for beginners but IGNORE the directions used in the Knapp toproping book! The mileages are completely wrong and the map is largely useless. It took us two hours to find the place. (The route beta in the book is okay AFAIK.)

    Boulderado is located about a mile up the road from Boulder Falls at a right-hand bend with a ten-car parking area on the left side. The climbing starts from a sloping ledge 40 feet above the road and the rock is obvious. If you hike more than 50', you've gone too far. The walkup for toproping is on the left.
    By Ron Olsen
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 29, 2007
    In mid-March 2007, Richard Rossiter placed four new toprope anchors at the Boulderado, atop Jam It, Ho Hum, Idle Hands, and Mons. The Spot bouldering gym paid for the hardware and asked Richard to install the bolts and rings for the benefit of all users. See Photo.

    Richard, who has the first known ascents of these routes, has been thinking about installing anchors here for several years; see Comment.

    Please don't toprope directly through the anchor rings; use your own gear instead. And be extremely careful if you are at the top of this cliff and are not anchored in. Personally, I prefer to lead these routes to set toprope anchors.
    By Mike Pharris
    From: Longmont, CO
    Jul 3, 2007
    One of the bolts at the top of "Idle Hands" is missing a hanger as of July 2, 2007. Still plenty of opportunity for anchors with the boulders and trees, but if you were planning on using the new double bolts - you can't.
    By Richard Rossiter
    Aug 6, 2007
    The missing ring hanger at the top of Idle Hands was replaced with a new quick link set up as of 8/6/07. I also checked the other three anchors for Jam It, Ho Hum and Mons. Everything is tightened down and set with red Locktite...should hold up for a while.
    By Mark Kelly
    Sep 9, 2009
    Anybody find a pair of Katanas there 9/8/09?
    By Adamatrix
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jul 18, 2011
    Left a rope on top of the Boulderado Wall under the large pine tree. Anybody pick it up Tuesday, July 12, 2011? Any info, please email adamatrix1@gmail.
    By Jason Watts
    From: Boulder,CO
    Sep 4, 2012
    Tie in to something if you are going to place top rope anchors on this cliff. It only took one slip to cause a death on 9-2-12 while trying to set a rope.
    By Sean Lynn
    From: Golden, CO
    May 31, 2017
    I was at Boulderado 5/30/2017 and explored quite a bit after the rockfall and scaling earlier this year. I would recommend being very careful on this cliff for quite a while. There is quite a bit of debris at the base where belays take place and the area where Ho Hum existed is highly unstable.

    I've added a picture showing quite a bit of loose rock still remaining above where you walk through and belay from. There are detached flakes (about where the tree used to be), large and unstable loose rocks (to the right of the Jam It roof).

    If you're in this area and decide to climb Jam It, be careful of overhead hazards. If you climb Idle Hands or routes to the right be aware that the unstable rock, should it give way, will likely come down near your belay station. It's also highly likely if you knock rock off the cliff face it ends in the road below.

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