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Colorado Springs & vicinity

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North Cheyenne Canyon 
Pike's Peak 
Rampart Park 
Stanley Canyon Ice 
Water Fall Loop Trail (sec. 16) 

Colorado Springs & vicinity Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,600'
Location: 38.83385, -104.83068 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 23,337
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Monty, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Leo Paik on Oct 25, 2006
Forecast:
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Looking down Hully.

Description 

Okay, this is going to tickle a few of you out there to say "what the...." This area has been notoriously tight in coughing up information on rock and/or ice. Once, there was even a Colorado Springs website which hosted a bit of information on ice. Well, some of it has been added to the database. Some is already in guidebooks such as Cameron Burns' delightful Colorado Ice Climber's Guide, Colorado Springs Area p. 217-220. So, everyone is secretive about the ice, but as my youngest child is taught in preschool, "let's share."

Within C. Burn's guide are:

Silver Cascades, WI2, 2p.
Green Mountain Falls, WI1-2
Gillette Falls, WI2-5, check out access issues 1st.

There likely is more ice in the Cheyenne Canyon drainage with the right conditions.

Higher up:

Blind Assumption, 300-1000'
The Ole 6, 4p, 450'
Total Abandon, 3p, 400'
Y Couloir, 2000' vertical

North Cheyenne Canyon:

The Phantom, 80'

Buried within our database is even two comments one
then and two about Helen Hunt Falls, and now Saint Mary’s Falls.

Getting There 

Colorado Springs is located on the Front Range, about 70 miles south of Denver. From there, you'll need to look at each of the specific subareas.

Climbing Season



Weather station 6.1 miles from here

22 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',10],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Colorado Springs & vicinity

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Colorado Springs & vicinity:
Total Abandon   WI4+ M4-5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption   WI5 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 400'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Hully Gully   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches   North Cheyenne Canyon
Y Couloir        Alpine, 2000'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Blind Luck   WI4 M5     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 5 pitches, 400'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Three Dragons   M7     Trad, Mixed, Alpine, 5 pitches, 350'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Right Couloir of Three Little Pigs (Flying W)   M2-3 PG13     Mixed, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
The Phantom   WI3-4 M6     Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 80'   North Cheyenne Canyon
66 Years of Fun   WI3 M5     Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Toga Party   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI3-4 M5-     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 350'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
The Ole 6   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c WI3 M6+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 450'   Pike's Peak : North Face of Pike's Peak
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Colorado Springs & vicinity

Featured Route For Colorado Springs & vicinity
Rock Climbing Photo: Visualize the ice.  Believe it or not, it's there.

Blind Assumption WI5 M5  CO : CO Ice & Mixed : ... : North Face of Pike's Peak
Blind Assumption climbs the icy chimney system on the left side of the Corinthian Column. Overall it is more sustained and harder than its cousin, Total Abandon. For 400 feet, it makes its way up 3 pitches before finally relenting on the summit snowfields.For the approach, see Total Abandon. Once at Total Abandon, keep going across the snowfield to the other side of the Corinthian Column. Turn right and go uphill.Pitch 1 - Begin at two fixed pitons on th...[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

Comments on Colorado Springs & vicinity Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Jan 29, 2007
Though I didn't have problems when I went to Gillette, I was warned of angry land owners deflating tires. The property accessed across is I believed owned by Colorado Springs water. I would suggest checking with the FS and CO Spgs before going to ensure you have a leg to stand on before going. If anyone can confirm access issues, it would be appreciated.
By Jamie Pierce
Oct 6, 2009
Gillette Falls and its approach reside on private property that belong to Cripple Creek Water District and a landowner that doesn't want folks crossing his land, and it's his right to keep folks off. If conditions allow, find another way to gain access to these falls, but find out what is best prior to the long approach.
By r.f
From: colorado springs
Jan 4, 2013
Helen Hunt/ S. Cascades is in for now. The cold temps have set up the ice enough to climb. It's a little wet in spots, and I've seen it thicker in years, but all in all, it is a fun solo at lunch time.