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West Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Bernal Sanders S 
Colonel of Bernal S 
Feel the Bernal S 
Filo Noroccidental S 
Kernal of Bernal S 
Unknown PdB 1 T 
Unknown PdB 2 S 
Unknown PdB 3 S 
Unknown PdB 4 T 
Unknown PdB 5 S 
Up or Down Chimney T 

Colonel of Bernal 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Donette & Todd Swain 12/2015
New Route: Yes
Season: fall, winter, spring
Page Views: 74
Submitted By: Gunkswest on Mar 27, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: The initial moves on the route.

Description 

Start 6-8 feet right of the last climb at the next line of bolts. Climb up the face to the ceiling that is about 40 feet up. Pull the ceiling on big holds and then continue up to an anchor below the next ceiling.

Location 

There are about ten fun, moderate routes that are down around the corner to the left of Filo Suroeste. To approach these climbs, hike up the main trail as if you are going toward the Bernalina face. About 100 yards before Bernalina, take a side path that goes up the hillside. This side path leaves the main trail near a wire basket filled with rocks (see descriptive pictures).

Go uphill about 50 vertical feet on the side path to a boulder that is painted like a monster/dinosaur. This boulder is on top of the shoulder/ridge that comes off the Pena.

Follow a path down the back side of the shoulder/ridge, staying at the base of the rock. In about 100 yards, you'll come to a face with a series of left-slanting cracks that look a bit like a corrugated metal roof. There is a long, orange ceiling above this face. These are the rightmost, upper routes on this wall.

At the left end of this face, there's a drop off of about 20 vertical feet. You can down climb (a bit tricky with a pack), do a short rappel from the nearby tree, or backtrack about 60 feet and follow a path downhill that loops back around to the lower, leftmost portion of the face.

The routes in this entire sector are described from left to right, so this route is the third route from the left margin of the wall on the lower face.

While this approach sounds complicated, once you've done it a time or two, you'll find you can get to this face from the main hiking trail in about five minutes.

Protection 

Bolts to a two bolt anchor. 30m.


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