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12 - Arche de Noway
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Arche de Noway T 
Colombe S 
Les Glouglous S 
Maudit serpent S 


YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 150'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Gaétan Castilloux 2002
Page Views: 59
Submitted By: Saint Grigri on Aug 12, 2016

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This nice and long route starts with a diagonal traverse that goes left and up for 7 bolts, and after that continues up for another 8 bolts to a bolted anchor.

Most of the climb has good hands and feet (feels like 5.7) and is not very steep, but there are a few 5.8 sections. The guidebook rates it as 5.8+.

Although the route is longer than 45 meters, due to the initial traverse, it can be lead on a 70 meter rope (maybe even 60 meter? Don't forget to leave a knot at the other end of the rope), and the leader will be lowered below the anchor to where the traverse ends.


This is the left-most route at the Arche de Noway cliff. To find the start look for the first bolt in a series of bolts that traverse diagonally left and up.


15 bolts to a bolted anchor.

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