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Coleman's Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 120'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Season: Spring through Fall
Page Views: 1,927
Submitted By: Patrick Mulligan on Sep 12, 2012

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Coleman's Crack

Private Property - Closed MORE INFO >>>


Zig-zagging finger crack at the far right of the main wall. Old guidebook stated that "your second reason for your existance as a climber is to climb this route." Start with very small fingers (tips) on a steep but just under vertical wall. You may have to clean some dirt out of the lower crack to protect well. The crack zig zags providing rests at the short horizontals. The crack widens from tips down low to fingerlock prior to topping out.


Double set of wires including offsets and rps and single rack to a #1 camalot.

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By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Jan 1, 2013

This climb is truly one of the best and most fun cracks you will find anywhere. Still on one of my top 5 climbs of all time and I have been climbing for 25 years. It's a damn shame that this area has been closed. I do recall that the top of this climb has killer hand jams so bring at least a #1 camalot or two. That's if anyone gets to climb it again.
By Patrick Mulligan
Dec 3, 2013

With decreased traffic this climb has gotten a little dirty. The leader may want both a toothbrush and a nut tool to clean out some of the grime from the crack. It definitely helps with gear placement and some of the smaller tips jams and crimps.

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