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The Cascades Wall
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L to R R to L Alpha
Ancient Relics T 
Coleman Direct T 
Diva T 
Medusa Cascade S 
Solar Ridge T 
Who Haas Those Holds? T 

Coleman Direct 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 55'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Eric Schmeer, Chris Grubbs, 07/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 1,592
Submitted By: AOSR on May 19, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (20)
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Chris on the second ascent of Coleman Direct.

Falcon Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb the prominent black streak just right of Solar Ridge. Clip a bolt halfway up, then fire a short but fun steep section on great rock to a bolted anchor. Rap or continue on to P2 of Solar Ridge.


This is just right of Solar Ridge on the Cascades Wall of The Meadow Dome.


1 bolt, rack to #2 Camalot.

Comments on Coleman Direct Add Comment
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By rob bauer
From: Golden, CO
May 22, 2013

Phil Persson led up the 3 intermittent cracks to the right of this, perhaps 15 feet right of the bolt on Coleman's, at 5.8? Then the 2nd pitch of Solar, then picked our own adventure up the head wall above the largest tree. All good.
By Leo Paik
From: Westminster, Colorado
May 24, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

We did that line to the right, too. We thought it was P1 of Ancient Relics, 2p, 10 R. The online guide listed P1 as 5.9, which felt perhaps soft. Since we didn't do P2, I didn't add it to the database yet.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
May 26, 2013

Definitely sounds like you guys did the first pitch of Ancient Relics. I was battling wasps on that pitch so maybe that's why it felt 5.9 haha.
By marshall moose
From: Golden, Colorado
Sep 21, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

First climb at Staunton - wow! The combination of somewhat small gear (that takes 'a keen eye') and interesting movement makes for some exciting climbing!
By Carl Schaefer
From: Boulder, CO
May 17, 2017

I found this hard to protect in several places with parallel-sided flaring cracks. I'll bring offset cams next time....

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