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Cold weather multipitch 5.10 Red Rocks
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Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tired but happy after long hike down from Lone Pea...
I saw the post below re: epinephrine and Solar Slab / Brownstone wall being good January destinations.

I was hoping to climb Nightcrawler next week but the weather might be cold on the crux pitches behind the hourglass pillar.

Any other suggestions for super classic 5+ pitch routes, 5.9 to 5.10+ (maybe limited 5.11-) in the sun for 50 degree January days? Thanks.
Ryan Arnold
Joined Jun 5, 2012
423 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow Williams, 2011
Ryan, one of your best bets for that length, grade and sun is Eagle Wall. Many only climb Eagle Dance or Levitation, but Mountain Beast and Ringtail are worthy as well.

Spectrum Wall is another sunny, short route option. Spectrum and Brass Balls in particular. Spectrum's roof pitch (6th/5.11-) is something you will remember for awhile.

Nightcrawler can be warmer than you think. The wall around it receives a good amount of sun this time of year. Brownstone Walls offer up quite a few short sunny routes in the grades you are interested in. Times Up (the sunny side of Nightcrawler) and Ten Minute Shift are both underrated/solid routes. The 5.11 cruxes are short lived on both.

All You Can Eat near Ginger Buttress is a short and sunny climb until noon. Way underrated. More adventurous and a better climb than the bolted Unimpeachable Groping nearby.

Chicken Lips goes with the Eagle Wall grouping first mentioned, a much easier route then those 4, but much better than the more popular (and nearby) Black Orpheus in the easier (5.9) route category. Few if any 5.10 moves on either.

Windy Peak offers the most sun of any wall in the park. The routes are relatively short because you gain 1500' on the approach (good trail). Western Swing is my favorite 5.10 on the south face.

Hope that helps get you started. Good luck on your trip. Sprectrum's roof pitch below, a unique pitch for Red Rock.

Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
241 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Rainbow Buttress
Like an itch you had to scratch. Andrew Yasso
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 9, 2012
233 points
Jan 11, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Quack
You may also want to try.

mountainproject.com/v/eagle-da...

mountainproject.com/v/mountain...

mountainproject.com/v/ringtail...

mountainproject.com/v/spectrum...

mountainproject.com/v/brass-ba...

mountainproject.com/v/times-up...

mountainproject.com/v/ten-minu...

mountainproject.com/v/all-you-...

mountainproject.com/v/chicken-...

mountainproject.com/v/western-...
Adventure Chumps
Joined Jul 22, 2015
16 points
Jan 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Rainbow Buttress


+1
Andrew Yasso
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 9, 2012
233 points
Jan 12, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: I'M THE F***ING KING OF INTERNET CLIMBING BRAJ
#summitpostLOL Burcheydawwwwwwg
Joined Jan 9, 2012
1,273 points
Jan 12, 2016
Andrew Yasso wrote:
Like an itch you had to scratch.


Andrew, it sounds like you must be jealous of Dow's lifestyle as he has asserted of other guides in Vegas. Just look out, or he might just spew about his 'sponsors' (outdoorprolink.com doesn't mean you're sponsored bro) or about being a 'professional climber'

That being said, a competent party using proper double rope technique could c2c Nightcrawler in about 2 hours. If you don't like climbing in the shade, you should apologize to your mother for not raising a man. Real men and competent parties climb in the cold, in the shade, and are definitely not jealous of Dow's lifestyle. Duh.
Andre H.
From Boulder
Joined Nov 8, 2012
16 points
Jan 12, 2016
mountainproject.com/v/orange-c...

Only 4 pitches, but sunny and you'll use of 3 pitches worth of oxygen on pitch 4...
dave custer
Joined Nov 14, 2010
579 points
Jan 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: tired but happy after long hike down from Lone Pea...
Appreciate the constructive comments and excellent route suggestions. How would the walkoff for Eagle Wall be this time of year? Supposedly beautiful but potentially icy. Ryan Arnold
Joined Jun 5, 2012
423 points
Jan 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: me
Ryan Arnold wrote:
Appreciate the constructive comments and excellent route suggestions. How would the walkoff for Eagle Wall be this time of year? Supposedly beautiful but potentially icy.


Do the Chicken Lips descent. It's twice as fast as going to the back of the canyon.
sqwirll
From Las Vegas
Joined Mar 12, 2006
1,498 points
Administrator
Jan 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Los Alamos Reservoir area arete project. August 20...
Ryan Arnold wrote:
Appreciate the constructive comments and excellent route suggestions. How would the walkoff for Eagle Wall be this time of year? Supposedly beautiful but potentially icy.

It's a really cool walk-off giving you some great views of a part of Red Rocks few people see. We did the walk off in late December 2009 and definitely had to hike through some snow and tread carefully around some patches of ice but it went. I've got some photos showing what it looked like.
Jason Halladay
From Los Alamos, NM
Joined Oct 19, 2005
10,494 points
Jan 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Lucander off the GT Ledge on p. 2 of Keep on Strut...
Guy asks for beta. Gets beta in first response. Then things get ridiculous. Red Rock climbers are looking as preposterous as Gunkies lately (check our dog thread a week ago). lucander
From Stone Ridge, NY
Joined Apr 1, 2009
340 points
Jan 13, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of Rainbow Buttress
lucander wrote:
Guy asks for beta. Gets beta in first response. Then things get ridiculous. Red Rock climbers are looking as preposterous as Gunkies lately (check our dog thread a week ago).


Nah it's just a recurring theme with one guy.
Andrew Yasso
From Las Vegas, NV
Joined Sep 9, 2012
233 points
Jan 14, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: Dow Williams, 2011
Ryan, the rap down Levitation is easy to get to from the top of Eagle Wall, no matter which route you climb. It is more of an exposed walk than "downclimb" or take a short rap from a tree. 70m single. I recommend the walk off to be done at least once for sure, just for the beauty of it, George Washington Tower, etc...but this time of year, I imagine the rap would be preferred by most. Rapping down Chicken Lips is fine as well, but you will have to regain quite a bit of elevation at the end of the day to grab your shoes and packs unless you climbed with it all. The Levitation rap will be a lot quicker. Outside of the south face of Windy Peak, this will be the sunniest wall you can find. But wind can be a factor at that elevation, if it is in the forecast. Good Luck. Dow Williams
From St. George, Utah; Canmore, AB
Joined Mar 13, 2006
241 points


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