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West Ridge - part D - Xanadu to Pony Express
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Zip Code T 

Cold Turkey 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jim Erickson and Jim Hofman, 1969
Page Views: 1,107
Submitted By: S. Kimball on Jan 7, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (21)
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BETA PHOTO: Looking up Cold Turkey. The wide junky stuff at th...

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  • Description 

    Much better than fowl lunchmeat and stiff for the grade. Scramble right from Positively 4th St. and belay from an evergreen. Up friable 5.8 chimney (RP and slung spike protection) onto a great jug then ledge. Lieback a sharp, pebbly, right-facing corner seen 20 feet. left of Air Mail. Turn into a crystalline, thin crack with nice locks and hand jams, and some steepness. Finish up easy but loose corners to large tree with rap rings.

    Rappel 140 feet or rope off toward the Rincon.

    Nowadays, this would be F10 on the Sinks Bar jukebox.


    Standard Eldo with mid-size RP and #3.5 and #4 Friend.

    Photos of Cold Turkey Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Just below the crux. The handcrack ends, and the c...
    Just below the crux. The handcrack ends, and the c...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Slinging the loose horn. There are small wires bel...
    Slinging the loose horn. There are small wires bel...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Exiting the chimney. After only a couple of chimne...
    Exiting the chimney. After only a couple of chimne...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chu...
    Above the crux at the secondary crux. Photo by Chu...

    Comments on Cold Turkey Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Gregger Man
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Aug 15, 2004

    Very loose, sharp stuff. Double-check your hand and footholds or you may send down some large missiles. [2004]

    Climbed it again Jan 2013. Not as bad as I had first thought.
    By kyle lefkoff
    Sep 30, 2004
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    I agree with Kimball: This is a nice climb, with the usual loose section (down low in this case). Crusher and I split it into two short pitches from the base, since there's a good ledge half way. In this style, the P1 chimney (5.8) protects with a 3.5 Friend. The P2 crack (5.9+) is solid and well protected at the crux with a fixed pin and gear.
    By Mike Munger
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    May 12, 2007

    Good quality climbing in the crux corner. The rap rings weren't there May 2007 but it's easy to walk off left from the next ledge up.
    By Jay Eggleston
    From: Denver
    Nov 10, 2009

    Don't sling the horn mentioned in the description! It is ready to come off. A #3 Camalot in a pod above and left of the horn seems adequate.
    By Clint Locks
    From: Boulder
    Mar 7, 2010
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R

    Jay's got a good point, but I say sling it anyway, and back it up with his suggestion. Who knows--it just might hold. There are ways to avoid putting all your weight on the horn in question while moving through that section.
    By 303scott
    Jan 28, 2013
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    This should be on anyone's tour de obscure in Eldo. If you've climbed enough in Eldo to be searching for obscure routes, nothing on this one will cause you concern and there is some really nice crack climbing above the chimney. Also, it looks like someone is putting up anchors for a new route that will also service this one, which will make the last 50 feet of 5.3 scrambling on loose rock unnecessary.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Mar 17, 2013

    The horn in the chimney is gone. There is a nice foot in its place.
    By Aaron Lucas
    Mar 10, 2014
    rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

    Just for "fun", one can start at the base of Zip Code. Use the diagonal slab with small gear. This still puts one at the base of the chimney.
    By Ralph Swansen
    From: Denver CO
    Nov 12, 2016
    rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

    This route can afford some more traffic. I thoroughly enjoyed it.
    By Ed Krejcik
    From: Broomfield, CO
    Apr 9, 2017

    The crux is very enjoyable and very well-protected. I did not see any anchors up at the top. Belayed off the big tree at the top. Be careful finishing this route after the crux section as there is tons of loose stuff everywhere. To descend from this route, continue up 5 feet past the big tree to the descent scramble used by Handcracker, scrambling off climber's left.

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