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Cold Fusion 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 110'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: John Rosholt
Page Views: 2,854
Submitted By: Red on Oct 23, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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BETA PHOTO: Bolt 1 of 16.

Portions of the approach and cliffs of this area are on private land. MORE INFO >>>


A Gambler classic, one of the longest routes at the Homestead, and one of the first routes put up on the RR. Crux is before the midway point, sustained climbing follows with great holds on a steep bulging arete to the top.


Just to the left when the trail hits the wall. Sixth bolt line in from the right side of RR wall. Stay left where bolt line splits. It ends on the steep bulging arete feature.


16 bolts to rings! You will need a 70 meter rope to be lowered to the ground or with a 60m you can lower to Rough Rider's anchors and then rap from there.

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By Shirtless Mike
From: Denver, CO
Dec 4, 2009
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route, very sustained for the first 3/4 then a no hands rest to a cool steep section on huge holds.
By Pat Mac
From: Tempe
Sep 28, 2010
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great route one of the best that I have climbed. I prefer the longer lines with harder moves at the top so you have to fight the pump!
By Jimbo
Jun 13, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Stiff for .11d. Crux 15 feet is in your face. I've done several .12a's that were easier than this route.
The top arete is no harder than 5.10 with big holds and great exposure.
Great route all in all.
By Red
From: Tacoma, Toyota
Jul 11, 2011

Some beta lists this route going at 11d, some beta lists it at 12a. Not a huge difference either way. The consensus does seems to be leaning toward 12a.
Regardless, it's a hell of a line.
By jeffrey c gibson
From: pheonix az
Feb 1, 2012

12 apple
By Joseph M.
From: Tucson, AZ
Apr 17, 2012
rating: 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

Great climbing up a tall piece of stone to an amazing headwall consisting of serious pump and awesome exposed arete climbing! The crux down low made the onsight not all that difficult.
By K-Tanz
From: Phoenix, AZ
Jan 26, 2013
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Seriously good stuff. Really technical and delicate climbing between bolts six and eight move into some .11 territory into a sit down rest and finishes with gigantic jugs. Highly recommended. If you are shorter definite .12a, taller people could be .11d.
By Marilla Lamb
Jan 2, 2014

So so fun! Great route for a particularly sleepy or hungry day. After some awesome moves, the no hands-no feet rest is the perfect spot for a nice nap and a snack before finishing up on some great jugs!
By Nick Henscheid
From: Tucson, AZ
Mar 19, 2016
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This climb is unbelievably good! Fun and easy intro leads to tricky 12a crux, then sustained, grin-inducing 10+ to a nice bivy ledge, finishing with a spectacular summit prow 90 feet up.

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