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Jet Stream Wall
Routes Sorted
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Airhead T 
Atmospheres T 
Cold Front T 
Drifting T 
Jet Stream T 
Tooth or Consequences T 

Cold Front 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 5 pitches, 480'
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b [details]
FA: FA: Unknown.
FFA: Joshua Janes & David Allfrey - Spring, 2013
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,224
Submitted By: Josh Janes on May 1, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Photo courtesy Darren in Vegas.

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Cold Front is a great new line (2-3 stars) that tackles the natural weakness - the attractive corner system - that divides the Jet Stream Wall in half (with Jet Stream and Atmospheres to the left and Drifting to the right). There are two amazing 5.10+/5.11- corner pitches that are linked together by a short 5.12 pitch that can easily be aided yielding a fun outing at an easier grade, but if you're up for the challenge the boulder problem crux is excellent as well. The only detractors are a short, dirty pitch off the ground and a bit of hollow rock on one section up higher.

Begin off the large, flat polished rock terrace at the base of the center of the wall near a large pine tree.

P1: The "Flowers" Pitch. Climb up a lichen-covered slab to a short finger crack just right of the gully system beneath the central corner. From the finger crack, bushwhack leftwards across the top of the gully to a belay out left at a good stance. Bushy, but pleasingly fragrant. 5.8, 80'.

P2: Climb the corner. An awkward but fun start leads to exceptional climbing punctuated with great rests. Belay at a cramped stance below the steeper wall above. 5.10, 120'.

P3: The boulder problem crux, follow face holds up a steepening wall to a good rest beneath a roof. Move left to underclings, then pull up over the roof and step around the corner to the left and belay on a foot ledge (or link into the next pitch). The crux is V4 and this pitch is well-protected. 5.12b, 50'.

P4: Climb up a series of hollow flakes, eventually working left to a semi-hanging belay beneath the amazing corner. Extend the belay to a stance 10' below this anchor for maximum comfort and use the anchor as the first protection point when climbing the next pitch. 5.9, 90'.

P5: This is the glory pitch - a magnificent black varnished corner providing several technical cruxes and thought-provoking but good gear. Climb through the first crux immediately above the belay, and continue up the corner. Higher there is a well-protected, tricky corner switch to the right, then some great, exposed moves up the arete separating the corners lead to yet another pretty corner. This is followed upwards past a final tricky section that employs a flake on the right face. Continue a little higher to a ledge system at the top of the wall. 5.11a, 140'.

Descent options:
1) Rap the route with two ropes or a single 80 (I haven't personally verified that a single 80 is enough)
2) Top out and walk off via the Brownstone Wall descent
3) Top out and rappel Jet Stream with a single 70
4) Traverse right over to Drifting and rappel that with a single 70
5) Traverse left to the final anchor of Atmospheres, then make a short diagonal rap hard left to join up with the Jet Stream rappels

Protection 

Double set from 0.3 to #2 Camalots. Singles of smaller TCU's and a set of wires.


Photos of Cold Front Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: half way up the stellar sustained p5 corner
half way up the stellar sustained p5 corner
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following the varnished corner of P5.
Matt following the varnished corner of P5.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following the crux P3.
Matt following the crux P3.
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt following P1.
Matt following P1.
Rock Climbing Photo: excellent rock for the final pitch
BETA PHOTO: excellent rock for the final pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: a view of the second pitch, though I think we took...
BETA PHOTO: a view of the second pitch, though I think we took...
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up pitch 2.
Starting up pitch 2.

Comments on Cold Front Add Comment
Show which comments
By Rob Fielding
From: Las Vegas, NV
May 2, 2013

Sounds like a good line, lets see some pics!
By Andy Hansen
From: Longmont, Colorado
May 14, 2013
rating: 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b

Excellent looking line guys! Edit (9/27/15) I was able to climb this yesterday after wanting to get on it for a while. The rack beta is pretty accurate but for P2, save the #3 Camalot for higher up as well as a #2. The "boulder problem" crux is rather sustained and the jug rest after the first V4 moves is on a block I was hesitant to hang out on. The crux, in my opinion, is getting over the roof on slimps and bad feet.

P1: 120' 5.8
P2: 120' 5.10c
P3: 40' 5.12b
P4: 90' 5.9
P5: 140' 5.11b (Offset stoppers/brass are nice for this pitch.)

It may be possible to rap with an 80m rope? Or, easily with 2 60m ropes. The rap on the crux pitch has a bolt/leaver biner to facilitate the large pendulum required to reach the anchor.
By David Allfrey
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
May 28, 2013

This is a fun route, the pitches are really great.
Rock Climbing Photo: Cold Front
Cold Front
By Austin Boren
From: las vegas Nevada
Nov 1, 2014

Nice climb. Each pitch took a bit of thinking. Cool exposed crux. Small nut/rp's are nice for the last pitch. Thanks FA'ers.
By Amos Whiting
From: Basalt, Colorado
Sep 27, 2015

We climbed this route last fall and it is quite good. One member got a "Trash" but the leaders french freed the harder pitches. The approach up the decent of Rose Tower is interesting yet goes fairly quick. The base of the route is marked with a amazing slab of varnished stone we dubbed "the laser slab".

P1: Pretty bushy and a bit funky to get started. A few fun moves before the anchor.

P2: Beautiful 10+ hands to a awkward hanging belay.

p3: The boulder problem description is correct for this. It is some .11- to a short V4. Our leader climbed it at .10+ A0. With a stick clip one could easily aid through.

P4: A bit hollow but never that hard.

P5: The glory pitch our leader climbed it at .10+ c2. It is a bit far to the first bolt. One could have a long extension off the anchor and clip the anchor as the first piece.

We rappelled the route with 2 60m ropes in 4 raps.

The rack is good, we would add a extra #1 and #2 Camelots for the 2nd pitch. Extra tiny cams for the last pitch.
By harrison t
From: Black Hills, SD
Dec 12, 2015

Fun route.. Three #1s and 2s would not go unused on P2.
By Darren in Vegas
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 7, 2016

The length of the last pitch will be the limiting factor in rappelling and is too long for double 60m, double 70m will get you down for sure. I also think that the 2nd pitch is too long for two 60s, again double 70 would work.

Heard through the grapevine that the last bolt of the crux pitch was primarily intended for aiding through, and may be hard to clip on lead while free climbing.

Another rumor has it that the seam that starts last pitch was originally lead on all gear, the bolt was added later to make this more fun and a touch safer.