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Colchuck Balanced Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Accendo Lunae(Let It Burn/West Face Var.) T 
Colchuck Balanced Rock Col (East Lake Side Approch) T 
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version) T 
Leche La Vaca T 
Let it Burn T,S 
Milk n' Honey T 
Rikki Tikki Tavi T 
Scarface T 
Scoop, The T 
Tempest, The T 
West Face T 

Colchuck Balanced Rock Rock Climbing 

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Location: 47.49184, -120.81797 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,108
Administrators: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jesse James on Mar 13, 2006
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This rock has some of the best alpine rock I have ever climbed. But its still alpine, so there is always loose stuff.

Getting There 

From the Colchuck Lake, head up Aasgard pass until you are about 400 feet above the lake. Head left through dense bushes to the obvious gully leading up to Colchuck Balanced Rock.

Climbing Season

For the Stuart-Enchantments area.

Weather station 11.6 miles from here

11 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Colchuck Balanced Rock:
Leche La Vaca   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches   
The Scoop   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 10 pitches, 1000'   
West Face   5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a     Trad, 9 pitches   
Let it Burn   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1200'   
Full Tilt (Tempest Wall Free Version)   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, 5 pitches, 1200'   
The Tempest   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b C0     Trad, Aid, 6 pitches   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Colchuck Balanced Rock

Featured Route For Colchuck Balanced Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: route topo

Leche La Vaca 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b  Washington : Central-East Cascades, Wena... : ... : Colchuck Balanced Rock
P1- Climb fun chimney very far right on the wall past a small tree. Climb onto knobby slab with thin pro in corner. Bust a spicy and fun 5.8 move left and over onto another knobby slab, climb into corner and belay.P2- Climb fun corner up to flake, move left around flake (5.9) into fun corner with knobs for feet. Get to a ledge.P3- From ledge, head up to a large left leaning 5.10 layback corner. #4 camalot possibly makes this less scary. Continue to large ledge and belay.P4- Climb beautiful...[more]   Browse More Classics in Washington

Photos of Colchuck Balanced Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010
BETA PHOTO: Routes on Colchuck Balanced Rock as of 09-2010
Rock Climbing Photo: Nathan
Rock Climbing Photo: Der Glow
Der Glow

Comments on Colchuck Balanced Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By jonah
Aug 7, 2006
This route is total carnage. Sooo good, but the pitches are HARD, and the approach is exhausting bushwhacking if you do it wrong. It's not rated like Squamish or the valley - way stiffer. The "5.8" chimney above the 5.12 "crux" is so much harder than anything on the route.

But it is worth doing if only for the long 5.11 dihedral (11b/c?). No stopper moves, but zero rests for 190 feet of tight hands in a steep corner. Spectacular.

Bring a 3.5 Camalot, 1 #3 (two might be nice, though not necessary), 3 #2s and doubles below that. YOu gotta build anchors, so while this seems like a lot of gear, the pitches are long and the anchors eat up gear.
By Sol Wertkin
From: Leavenworth, Washington
Aug 28, 2009
Hey Jonah i think your comments may be misguiding people. The long corner goes at 10+/11- and is only 110ft long. The crux above the roof traverse pitch is 11c (not 12a) and the trail is cleared and cairned for the most part.
By Julian Barnett
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 10, 2017
Can you legally (without a permit) camp at the base of the climb or nearby? Or would you have to do this car 2 car in a grueling long day?
By Kyle Elliott
From: Everett, WA
Jul 10, 2017
Julian, Overnight camping is not allowed without a permit, and I've been told rangers DO patrol the area.
By Kevin MP
From: Redmond, OR
Jul 13, 2017
Carrying bivy gear anywhere near the start of the route would be grueling. Set up a base camp somewhere along the Mountaineer's Creek road. Start in the dark, it's 4 miles on a hiking trail to the lake. Take the east side approach. As of July 4 on a big snow year there was water running (not much) in the gully you cross 30 or 40 minutes above the lake. There was a short section of steep snow we had to cross to access the ramp at the base of the wall, chopping steps with a rock was necessary.
By Julian Barnett
From: Seattle, WA
Jul 18, 2017
Thanks for the feedback guys. Planning on doing this in the next couple weeks!

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