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Coire an t-Sneachda

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Aladdin's Buttress 
Mess of Pottage 

Coire an t-Sneachda Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 3,000'
Location: 57.1083, -3.6609 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 1,257
Administrators: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: rdlennon on Jan 31, 2009
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Loch Morlich from the Northern Corries

Description 

Coire an t-Sneachda is a large glacial cirque located on the northern slope of the Cairngorm plateau between Cairn Gorm and Cairn Lochain. Over 500 feet deep and nearly half a mile across, this craggy basin is home to over a hundred routes. Best known for its winter climbing, over the years crampon and axe wear has cleaned the rock, so the Coire is now a popular summer climbing destination as well. Its proximity to the car park and the quality and quantity of its routes make it an extremely popular venue and on any given day it may be the site of beginner winter skills courses, hard core mixed ascents, summer rock first ascents, and everything in between.

There are four main buttresses in the Coire; from left to right Mess of Pottage, Aladdin's Buttress, Fluted Buttress, and Fiacaill Buttress. All but Fiacaill are roughly north facing and receive little sun. The rock is good granite and the ice and snow are typically of good quality due to the elevation and the Coire's northern aspect. Avalanches are a danger here and precautions should be taken.

Getting There 

Follow signs out of Aviemore for Cairn Gorm and the ski area. A roughly 10 mile drive from town will lead up a switchback slope to the free ski area car park. Walk across the low ridge bordering the right of the ski area until two cirques are visible, divided by a sharp ridge. The left hand cirque is Coire an t-Sneachda, and the right is Coire an Lochain. Follow the well-defined trail left at a split and up into the Coire floor. The walk is about two miles.

To descend: many parties descend the ridge left of the Coire on easy ground and follow the ski slopes down to the car park. Several of the gullies can be safely descended in poor conditions, as can either of the large snowfields at the corners of the Coire. Fiacaill Ridge, the sharp arete bordering the right of the basin, is also an option.

Climbing Season

For the Scotland area.

Weather station 1.1 miles from here

5 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Coire an t-Sneachda
Rock Climbing Photo: Route overview of The Magic Crack

The Magic Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  Europe : United Kingdom : ... : Aladdin's Buttress
One of the best 5.9 (HVS) climbs in the Cairngorms. This route also sees winter ascents as evidenced by the crampon scratches on the rock.P1: Climb the corner up to a broad rib and then up to a belay on a comfortable platform. If you go up the face you end up making a traverse right to reach this platform.P2: Go up and right from the platform and gain a crack system that leads up into some left-facing corners with a good handcrack. Climb the corners to a fixed belay. Further out right is a s...[more]   Browse More Classics in International

Photos of Coire an t-Sneachda Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Fiacaill Ridge, right side of the Coire
Fiacaill Ridge, right side of the Coire
Rock Climbing Photo: The Northern Corries from the Cairngorm ski area.
The Northern Corries from the Cairngorm ski area.
Rock Climbing Photo: Coire an t-Sneachda
Coire an t-Sneachda

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