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8-Cosmiques
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Affordable Care T,TR 
Cohiba T,TR 
Guanobita T,TR 
Hand Traverse T 

Cohiba 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 65'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: TR Luke Wolcott + Ken Roberts
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 13, 2016

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Description 

Interesting moves, but the initial hand-holds on the crack are a bit slippery.

Just go up the crack.

Descent: Either bring slings/cord + rings to construct a rappel anchor (at least one nice rock horn or hole above top of Affordable Care.
Or scramble off to the south (4th class exposed) -- see intructions for Top-Rope access on sector 8 description page.

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Location 

Crack about 20 feet left from right (S) end of sector wall.
About four feet right from a wide alcove, and about four feet left from crack more than one foot wide at bottom.

--> see Cosmiques sector routes Photo | | lower R cracks Photo <--

Protection 

No fixed hardware for top anchor or for leading as of 2016.

Leading: Protection for Trad leading is unconfirmed so far, but the Top-Rope First-Ascensionists felt that it should protect reasonably with a standard Trad rack.

Top-Rope: Various rock holes or horns available for top anchor.
For access to top of cliff see ideeas on sector 8 description page.


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