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Coffin Dodger 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 4 pitches, 330', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b C1 [details]
FA: Andy Ross Paul Ross (var leads)
Page Views: 1,524
Submitted By: USBRIT Ross on Dec 9, 2009

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Herb coming up the final section of the 1st pitch

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The route climbs the crack system on the left of the West face.From the ground the bolt belay of P1 is visible below an obvious chimey at about 150'
P1) Begin up the crack to below an overhanging crack and right facing corner 90'(optional belay) Continue up a good quality crack to the ledge below the chimney and two bolt belay. 5.10 .C1. 150'
P2) Climb the strenuous chimney (3 bolts) to a crack and roof. Pull the roof moving right past 4 bolts up a light colored cone to natural belay at its top. 5.10+. C1. 80'
P3) Climb the 4-inch crack to a wide chimney. Walk to the back of the chimney to the north side of the tower and belay below a wide overhanging undercling crack. 5.10 C1 .50'
P4) Ascend the undercling crack, then the corner above to the summit. 5.10.C1 50'.

Descent;- Two double-rope raps to the ground.

Location 

See Topo photo

Protection 

Friends two sets through #6 with extra #3.#3.5. Large stoppers.


Photos of Coffin Dodger Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo:  Paul Starting P2
Paul Starting P2
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up the chimney
Looking up the chimney
Rock Climbing Photo: A) Coffin Dodger. C1 5.10+ B)Tres Gatos. 5.11. A0
A) Coffin Dodger. C1 5.10+ B)Tres Gatos. 5.11. A0
Rock Climbing Photo: It was dark when arriving on the summit when fixin...
It was dark when arriving on the summit when fixin...
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down second pitch
Looking down second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: Andy arriving top of second pitch
Andy arriving top of second pitch

Comments on Coffin Dodger Add Comment
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By USBRIT Ross
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jan 14, 2014

No reported second ascent as of 2014...but perhaps an attempt
By Nate Sydnor
From: Moab
Jul 30, 2017

Yesterday, Herb Crimp and I did what we believe is the probable first free ascent of this route. The rock is not always the most desirable, and the climbing clocks in at a somewhat-burly .10+, but it is a fun adventure route to the top of an amazing formation. Expect some loose and sometimes crumbly rock, along with occasionally-dubious protection. We found a single set in the small sizes, down to green alien, along with doubles of everything else, triples of #3 and #4 Camalot, and a single #5 and #6 to be ideal.
By USBRIT Ross
From: Keswick Cumbria.UK
Jul 30, 2017

Good one ... Yes I remember a rough section of sugar rock .. Anyway well done ... not an easy project ... As you see we had fun in the dark ...its the adventure that's memorable... All the Best from the UK. Thanks for pic.

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