REI Community
Castle Rock
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Acro-Ace, The 
Acro-Aerial, The 
Acrobatic Overhang 
Aid Roof 
Athlete's Feat T 
Atlas Shrugged T 
Bailey's Overhang T 
Beetle Bailey S 
Big Deal Pinnacle (AKA: Square Diehl) T 
Big Splash, The S 
Black Crack, The T 
Boot Lead T,TR 
By Gully T 
Cadaver Crack T 
Cage Free 
Campaigner, The T 
Circadian Rhythms T 
Citadel V1 
Citadel, The 
Close To the Edge S 
Coffin Crack T 
Comeback Crack T 
Country Club Crack T 
Crank It (aka Slabio) S 
Curving Crack T 
Cussin' Crack T 
Cussing Fingers Variant T 
Deadline T,S 
Deersquatch T,TR 
Direct Start T 
Dropout Option T 
E-Z Action T 
Englishman's Home T 
Final Exam T 
Flow, The 
Free Range 
Gill Crack, The T,TR 
Gluten Free T,S 
Hit Hard Tactics 
Invisible Idiot T,TR 
Jackson's Wall T 
Jackson's Wall Direct T 
Knight With a Shining Stick 
Mexican Picnic T 
Midnight Express 
Never a Dull Moment T 
No Fly Zone T 
Nobody's Home T 
Pass Fail Option T 
Polyester Leisure Suit T,S,TR 
Queen is Dead, The T 
Rebellion T 
Replacement Killers, The 
Route 66 T 
Skunk Crack T 
Smokey the Bandit 
South Face T 
South Face Direct T 
Standard Bulge 
Sting, The T 
Stingay T 
Storming the Castle S 
Subterranean Homesick Blues T,S 
Surface Tension (aka Two) 
Times Past T 
Tongo T 
Tourist Extravagance S 
Water World T,S 
West Face T 
West Face, Direct Start T 

Coffin Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Rearick, Pat Ament, 1964
Page Views: 4,133
Submitted By: Alex Hearn on Sep 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (46)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Good catch, Mel! Mel Banks catching Charles Deane...

Seasonal Closure MORE INFO >>>


The business of this route is just off the ground - - bring your big gear for this OW/squeeze. Struggle, grunt & cuss your way thru 15 feet of clean off-width, too small to get all the way into, and too big to jam (chicken-wings sorta work). Note that it can be climbed on face holds mostly, if you want to avoid the OW. Then again, why would you be here if that's the goal?

Above, run thru the gully onto the face above, and choose one of many options to the top. Or, take the rap slings to your right back down (about 15' right)(you don't want to belay from these).

I'd just like to add that I have immense respect for those who climb OWs with grace, style & technique - - none of which I possess. This kicked my butt, and I'm sure I provided those on the ground with great entertainment watching me flounder.


You get to use that big stuff that's been hanging uselessly on your rack. 2 #4 Camalots, a #5 is helpful. Several blocks to be slung as well. Upper section appears to take the standard stuff - - nuts & cams.

Photos of Coffin Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: John working his way up through the crux!
John working his way up through the crux!
Rock Climbing Photo: By Gully and Coffin Crack.
BETA PHOTO: By Gully and Coffin Crack.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alex, sobbing like a fool, pioneers a new move, th...
Alex, sobbing like a fool, pioneers a new move, th...

Comments on Coffin Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 1, 2002

Face climbing through the crux seemed harder than 10b to me. If you have really huge hands, you can get a fist jam at the crux. However I have larger than average hands, and I couldn't get the jam.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 19, 2003
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

The first pitch felt like 5.10 on big moves with odd "windmill" cross-over moves. The O.W. below is hiding a few sidepulls that facilitate crossing a right to the sloper on the left, then match and put the left hand to the jug on the right. Secure and not too hard.
The second pitch of this route is really fun and cool. If you beat the first pitch, keep going up for a second battle at the handcrack through the roof (5.10). You can get to just below the P2 roof with a single 60m line. Protect with Friends from 2-3.5" 4" piece optional, where it will be easier anyway.
By Adri.n Robert
From: boulder, co
Oct 8, 2006

Felt like doing a freestyle swim...there are some really key heel-toe cams that allowed me to reach that slopey rail for the mantle. Big ups to Chuck for leading that with 3 pieces.
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 15, 2008

I was able to do a fist jam to get into the offwidth (and I hate fist jams). Then a few less than happily secure offwidth type moves (but with a good foothold) and you get to jugs again. Short in the business, but a good testpiece.
By Brian Adzima
From: San Francisco
Jun 17, 2009

Felt sane with only one #4 camalot, even for a lost sport climber.
By Ken Trout
From: Golden, CO
Sep 10, 2009

FA: 1964!!!! Back when...the Beatles showed us greasers how to wear our hair proper.
By prod. Kenny
From: Boulder, Co
Mar 31, 2012

Kicked my ass the first time. Fun climb.


Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About