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Coffin Crack 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dave Rearick, Pat Ament, 1964
Page Views: 4,339
Submitted By: Alex Hearn on Sep 29, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (49)
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Good catch, Mel! Mel Banks catching Charles Deane...

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  • Description 

    The business of this route is just off the ground - - bring your big gear for this OW/squeeze. Struggle, grunt & cuss your way thru 15 feet of clean off-width, too small to get all the way into, and too big to jam (chicken-wings sorta work). Note that it can be climbed on face holds mostly, if you want to avoid the OW. Then again, why would you be here if that's the goal?

    Above, run thru the gully onto the face above, and choose one of many options to the top. Or, take the rap slings to your right back down (about 15' right)(you don't want to belay from these).

    I'd just like to add that I have immense respect for those who climb OWs with grace, style & technique - - none of which I possess. This kicked my butt, and I'm sure I provided those on the ground with great entertainment watching me flounder.


    You get to use that big stuff that's been hanging uselessly on your rack. 2 #4 Camalots, a #5 is helpful. Several blocks to be slung as well. Upper section appears to take the standard stuff - - nuts & cams.

    Photos of Coffin Crack Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: John working his way up through the crux!
    John working his way up through the crux!
    Rock Climbing Photo: By Gully and Coffin Crack.
    BETA PHOTO: By Gully and Coffin Crack.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Alex, sobbing like a fool, pioneers a new move, th...
    Alex, sobbing like a fool, pioneers a new move, th...

    Comments on Coffin Crack Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By George Bell
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 1, 2002

    Face climbing through the crux seemed harder than 10b to me. If you have really huge hands, you can get a fist jam at the crux. However I have larger than average hands, and I couldn't get the jam.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 19, 2003
    rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

    The first pitch felt like 5.10 on big moves with odd "windmill" cross-over moves. The O.W. below is hiding a few sidepulls that facilitate crossing a right to the sloper on the left, then match and put the left hand to the jug on the right. Secure and not too hard.
    The second pitch of this route is really fun and cool. If you beat the first pitch, keep going up for a second battle at the handcrack through the roof (5.10). You can get to just below the P2 roof with a single 60m line. Protect with Friends from 2-3.5" 4" piece optional, where it will be easier anyway.
    By Adri.n Robert
    From: boulder, co
    Oct 8, 2006

    Felt like doing a freestyle swim...there are some really key heel-toe cams that allowed me to reach that slopey rail for the mantle. Big ups to Chuck for leading that with 3 pieces.
    By Joshua Merriam
    From: Boulder, CO
    Oct 15, 2008

    I was able to do a fist jam to get into the offwidth (and I hate fist jams). Then a few less than happily secure offwidth type moves (but with a good foothold) and you get to jugs again. Short in the business, but a good testpiece.
    By Brian Adzima
    From: San Francisco
    Jun 17, 2009

    Felt sane with only one #4 camalot, even for a lost sport climber.
    By Ken Trout
    From: Golden, CO
    Sep 10, 2009

    FA: 1964!!!! Back when...the Beatles showed us greasers how to wear our hair proper.
    By prod. Kenny
    From: Boulder, Co
    Mar 31, 2012

    Kicked my ass the first time. Fun climb.


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