Coffin Buttress Rock Climbing
The Coffin Buttress is home to one of the finest finger cracks in Little Cottonwood Canyon, The Coffin (5.9). Also, a couple of bolted routes run up the slabs and a very difficult crack splits the Coffin Roof (5.12).
Park in the Little Cottonwood
lower canyon Park and Ride. Locate the climber's access trail in the lot's northeast corner (directly north of the restroom). Follow this trail east until you are directly below the obvious shaped Coffin Buttress
The most enjoyable way to get to The Coffin
is to first climb Crescent Crack
(5.7, 2 pitches) on the Crescent Crack Buttress
. This lands you right at the base of the rock. Another alternative is to climb a steep trail that leads to the base, to the right of the Crescent Crack Buttress
Weather station 3.0 miles from here
9 Total Climbing Routes
['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
Classic Climbing Routes in Coffin Buttress
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Coffin Buttress
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Coffin Buttress:
The Coffin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
The Viewing 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
R Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Coffin Roof 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Featured Route For Coffin Buttress
The Coffin 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a UT
: Wasatch Range
: ... : Coffin Buttress
The Coffin is the obvious finger crack that perfectly splits the face on the Coffin Buttress. The opening is a little tricky to protect, but still has good pro. After that, the gear is great until the anchors.Clip the manky pin left of the crack, then traverse into the crack. Place a small cam, then climb up the beautiful finger crack for 80' to the large roof. From here two options exist. Traverse right (easier) to the anchors, or traverse left to anchors. Going left is highly recommended ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
Ed Webster attempting the Coffin Roof (5.12a), Lit...
BETA PHOTO: Crescent Crack Buttress from the road: 1-Mexican C...
Anna with the coffin behind her
BETA PHOTO: Great map of how to approach the coffin
By Peter Gram
From: Cupertino, CA
May 14, 2004
Just to clarify on the Coffin Buttress approach. Start as for Crescent Crack from the highway. A fork is encountered a ways up which has the right branch go into a water drainage (left goes through overgrown trees to Crescent Crack). This drainage is the trail. Follow this, eventually leading to scrambling across slabs to the base of the Coffin.