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e. The Mac Wall (Something Interesting)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birdie Party T 
Co-op T 
Coexistence T 
Credibility Gap T 
Dangler, The T 
Dry Martini T 
Fall to Grace T 
Fly Again T 
Grape Nuts T 
Graveyard Shift T 
Higher Stannard T 
Impenetrable Ceilings  T 
Interstice T 
Jane Fonda Workout for Pregnant Women, The TR 
Land Ho! T 
Land's End (Direct) T 
Laughing Man T 
Men At Arms T 
Mother's Day Party T 
Overhanging Layback T 
Redirectional Idealism T 
Scene of the Climb T 
Something Boring T 
Something Interesting T 
Star Action T 
Still Crazy After All These Years T 
Tequila Mockingbird T 
Three Pines T 
Tough Existence T 
Tough Shift T 
Try Again T 
Welcome to the Gunks T 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: FA: Jim McCarthy, Phil Jacobus, John Hudson, & Peter Armour - 1962
FFA: Rich Goldstone & Jim McCarthy - 1967
Page Views: 12,772
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Feb 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (113)
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Pulling over the roof on Coexistence. Copyright Sa...


Co-Ex is a fantastic single pitch climb on the MF wall. It is considered "the" 5.10 Gunks testpiece... It's rated 10d, but with the correct beta it should feel, oh, about 11a. It's unbelievable to me that the FFA was done in 1967.

Start 20' right of Try Again at a left-facing corner. Climb up to the ledge that's 20 ft. up (a block was broken off here in 2009). Walk 15 ft. right along the ledge, and then follow the broken left-angling crack up and through the overhang (crux), then step left and up to a bolted anchor.


Standard Rack.

Photos of Coexistence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Darek Kuczynski fully focused on the CoEx crux. Ey...
Darek Kuczynski fully focused on the CoEx crux. Ey...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tricia approaching the overhang.
Tricia approaching the overhang.

Comments on Coexistence Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 13, 2016
By Ryan Curry
Oct 18, 2008

A fantastic route with fun moves and a somewhat devious crux. It should be noted that although this climb is mostly well-protected, the opening moves past the first piece of gear are not; however, the climbing is relatively easy. Aside from that, the route eats gear.
By paulmadry
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Be aware that there is 15-20 feet of R/X 5.8 climbing to get to the ledge. Crux is well protected.
By Monomaniac
From: Morrison, CO
Aug 6, 2009

I don't believe that's correct Paul. I remember getting good gear below the ledge. I'm thinking it was around a #0 TCU or something like that.
By gblauer Blauer
From: Wayne, PA
Aug 8, 2009

I seconded this climb, so my comments are based on that perspective.

A fun start to some good face moves lead to a hard crux move. I nearly pumped out trying to make the move over the roof.
By A Terray
From: San Diego, CA
Nov 27, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Agree w/ Paul. First 25 feet is 5.8 R/X. Beyond that gear is G. Pins at crux are easily backed up and fall is clean!
By Colin R
From: Ottawa, ON
Mar 18, 2012

I followed this today - what a fantastic route. I will come back and lead it someday this year for sure...
By Jaysen Henderson
From: Bronx NY
Aug 12, 2012

i lead this today and still dont know the beta....
By Richard Dana
From: Eugene, OR
Oct 10, 2012
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

Incredible climb. You can get a blue tcu 10 feet up, but then its 15 feet of 5.8 to a ledge so the last bit is R. The rest is beautifully protected though.
By The Coop
Sep 4, 2013

I'd add that the 5.8 runout is pretty straightforward and on positive holds
By cPay
From: Riverdale, NY
Apr 29, 2014
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

I'd recommend not clipping the pitons at the crux, its more strenuous to reach out there to the left than to just throw a solid cam right in front of your face (which I would do anyway) so the pitons aren't really doing a whole lot for ya.
By City Dweller
From: New York, NY
Oct 15, 2015

Absolute classic! Gear's great. Definitely clip the pins.
By Jon Po
From: Mahwah, NJ
Apr 8, 2016
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I would like to add that the 5.8 R/X section is very secure on moderately spaced positive holds. If you're climbing at this grade, the start shouldn't keep you off this awesome climb! Clipping the pins is totally unnecessary.
By SethG
Apr 11, 2016

There is a little overlap at the one technical move in the early going-- I have gotten a variety of pieces in there. Small cams and small nuts. I think it is worth placing this one piece. After this one move the climbing is easier up to the ledge. You will be in groundfall range again before you reach the ledge, but the moves are quite easy.
By Sean Sullivan
From: Boise, ID
Oct 13, 2016

I avoided that 5.8 R/X section by climbing the easier and more protected corner about 15 feet left. I climbed and back-cleaned as I went up, and then walked across the ledge, setting an anchor below the left-leaning crack of CoEx before starting up the route. I later did the 5.8 start on top rope and was happy with my decision to avoid it.

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