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Gulley No.1 Buttress
Routes Sorted
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Cody's Lament T 
Coin de la Souris T 
First Shot S 
Ground Zero T 
Hattie's Garden (the climb) T 
Invasion of the Booty Snatchers T 
Land Ahoy T 
Lead Poisoning  T 
Life By the Tracks T 
Mice & Men T 
Mouseketeers T 
Part the Sea T 
Rodent Arete T 
Superior Races, The T 

Cody's Lament 

YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a X

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.5 French: 4b Ewbanks: 13 UIAA: IV+ ZA: 11 British: MS 4a X [details]
FA: Todd Swain & Jeff Foster
Page Views: 60
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Nov 29, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: START of Cody's Lament

Description 

Mike Cody (not Joe Cote) must have lamented missing this line. (?) ...or maybe not with the "X-ish" rating! The 2 stars assumes doing the route with a TR anchor.(see below)

If you are not a fan of leading 5.5-5.6X, it is possible to move 15-20 ft left of the "First Shot" anchors and get gear into a left-facing corner/flake to set a "directional", and then lower down with a 70 M rope, thus TR'ing the interesting climbing on this route.

START- At a tiny, right facing flake/corner about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot", and directly below a streak of dark rock that extends from the top of the cliff.

P1 - Climb up past the tiny 'corner' and continue on the dark streak of rock about 15-20 ft left of "First Shot." A little below the level of the anchor of "first Shot" move left to intercept the line of "Ground Zero" at it's 3rd bolt. Continue to the trees. 200 +/- feet, 5.5 - 5.6 X

Protection 

According to Webster the FA party actually found some "protection" in the form of a #1 Stopper and a #1 Hex. If you routinely carry these on your rack for other than aid climbing, you're a real traditionalist!


Photos of Cody's Lament Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "Cody's Lament" (5.5 X) being TR'd from ...
BETA PHOTO: "Cody's Lament" (5.5 X) being TR'd from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Cody's Lament - about 1/2 way up. Note the route i...
BETA PHOTO: Cody's Lament - about 1/2 way up. Note the route i...

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