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Code Walker T 

Code Walker 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 200'
Original:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a C2 [details]
FA: Zac Warren and Roy Suggett
New Route: Yes
Season: Possibly February through May dependig on weather and road conditions.
Page Views: 1,475
Submitted By: Roy Suggett on Apr 5, 2014

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BETA PHOTO: Code Walker

Description 

CLIMB: Hacker's Tower in the lower end of the canyon.

ROUTE: Code Walker

DESCRIPTION: This formidable and fantastic tower currently has only one line on it, though there are other possibilities. The current line is out of the vision of most of the hiker traffic well below in the canyon. To reach the climb, hike up the canyon about a mile, passing many great climbing possibilities until you are just under the southeast corner of Hackers Tower. Follow the faint trail, cairns, and the line of least resistance up to the northeast corner where the staging area is located.

SEASON: Maybe February to June depending on the cold or the heat.

Pitch I: Code Walker is by design a circuitous route that walks its way around the tower (see topo below). It starts on a hook on the east wall in a small cut out which eventually becomes the east/north wall arête. After gaining some height in aiders, sew up some small cracks and start free climbing. After placing a bit more pro you gain the arête and clip the only bolt on the east face and pull around to the north side on to a dark band (presumably/hopefully more iron) that diagonals slightly up and across the north face. Move cautiously right through the band clipping bolts. Like most rock stars, leave the band clipping the eighth and final bolt of the pitch prior to climbing up and right at the north/west wall arête where you reach a two bolt belay on a small four inch wide stance that is about five feet in length. This ends the first pitch.

Pitch II: Head straight up clipping bolts in the direction of a protruding shoulder formation. The bolt line takes you left around this bulge passing pockets where a BD #5, and #4, respectively, and optional, can be used and should be runnered. These placements are not in the best of rock (NOTE THE CAM SCARS). Gain the top of this formation and head up and right toward the obvious weakness in the cap rock. The climbing so far on this second pitch is almost entirely in aiders. Get use to that top step. Follow the line to the overhanging cap rock and two (thank god) small ledges, clipping the final or 12th bolt of pitch II, moving up and over to the glorious summit. A register is attached to the two bolt anchor. Have the second bring up the camera to take some shots up and down the red rock ribbon gently winding well below. The canyon takes the water of the Hackberry toward the Paria and eventually the Colorado River at Lees Ferry and on to Mexico, though sadly, no longer to the Sea of Cortez. The sparkling waters, green shimmers of the Cottonwoods, juxtaposed against the red, the blue sky, and drifting white clouds make for a euphoric summit experience.

DESCENT: Rap off of the north face with two 60 meter ropes and back to the staging area.

Location 

About a mile into the lower end of the canyon. You can not miss it!
Work up the faint trail following cairns to the northeast corner.

Protection 

GEAR: An assortment of small wires and cams (Metolious 00), singles of BD .5 through a 5, some kind of aid hook(s) (a Talon works well) aiders, 16 quick draws, 5 shoulder length and 2 long runners. Two 60 meter ropes.
RATING: 5.9+ C2 The first pitch can go almost entirely free at 5.11 with the exception of the first moves. If you bail at the end of this pitch you will need two ropes to reach the bottom of the west side. The second pitch is almost entirely in aiders and also needs two ropes to rap and reach the north side staging area.


Photos of Code Walker Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zac at belay
Zac at belay
Rock Climbing Photo: Zac heading around pitch II shoulder
Zac heading around pitch II shoulder
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit register
Summit register
Rock Climbing Photo: Northeast or short side of Hacker's Tower and Roy ...
Northeast or short side of Hacker's Tower and Roy ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Small natural pockets were great for setting a Tal...
Small natural pockets were great for setting a Tal...
Rock Climbing Photo: Airy all the way and changes every time a new pers...
BETA PHOTO: Airy all the way and changes every time a new pers...
Rock Climbing Photo: Serious first move after the first bolt. Defiantly...
BETA PHOTO: Serious first move after the first bolt. Defiantly...
Rock Climbing Photo: First bolt
BETA PHOTO: First bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Original cam hook move is now chipped, creativity ...
BETA PHOTO: Original cam hook move is now chipped, creativity ...
Rock Climbing Photo: First day
First day
Rock Climbing Photo: Zac on top
Zac on top
Rock Climbing Photo: Fun!
Fun!
Rock Climbing Photo: Tall climber for the second pitch is a conciderati...
Tall climber for the second pitch is a conciderati...
Rock Climbing Photo: Summit selfie
Summit selfie
Rock Climbing Photo: Rock Star Zac in the "Band"
Rock Star Zac in the "Band"
Rock Climbing Photo: First day
First day
Rock Climbing Photo: Mans best friend carried the beer in and the empti...
Mans best friend carried the beer in and the empti...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy on top
Roy on top
Rock Climbing Photo: Hacker Tower
Hacker Tower
Rock Climbing Photo: Super fun aid ladder climb, no pro needed if you j...
BETA PHOTO: Super fun aid ladder climb, no pro needed if you j...
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy belaying Zac at second pitch
Roy belaying Zac at second pitch
Rock Climbing Photo: More fun
More fun
Rock Climbing Photo: Roy jugging up fixed line to finish pitch II
Roy jugging up fixed line to finish pitch II
Rock Climbing Photo: Last party on top
Last party on top

Show All 25 Photos

Only the first 24 are shown above.

Comments on Code Walker Add Comment
Show which comments
By Roy Suggett
Apr 11, 2014

This tower took some time to put up. We started by carrying loads across the ice in yak tracks. Then little by little pushing forward. Cold weather, work, and other issues made this project drag on but none the less...it's a hoot! Hope somebody else thinks so too.
By BSU_Zac
Apr 22, 2014
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a C2

Glad to have finally finished this hidden gem. Hope it is enjoyed. When we began we thought the upper face would have gone with minimal bolting and a decent amount of free climbing but once we finished the first pitch we realized that all but about 15' would have to be a bolt ladder.
By Johnny Victor
From: Joshua Tree
May 28, 2014

Great hike to the base 90% is in the canyon wash The start is a little tough to piece together. Once your on the traverse the protection is excellent! A bolt ladder to the top, enjoy the view and a fun start rappel to the base. Have fun Be Safe.
By Grey Fox
Jun 2, 2014
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c C1

Outstanding approach to the climb, almost didn't make the climb because of so many other good lines, but well worth the wait.

Come with a good head because the first pitch is challenging on all fronts! A talon is probably the best tool for the first move followed by a set of micro whatever cause it's thin to the first bolt. Repeat climbs may make this start more difficult as it wears away the stone.

First move after the first bolt is committing and just sets you up for the rest of the pitch. A long runner is recommended to reduce rope drag but just adds to the headiness at the same time.

Just another example of the great work of Roy "the silver fox"! Your welcome Roy!
By Roy Suggett
Nov 25, 2014

As of 11/25/14 only two parties have submitted...or so I believe.

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