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Code of the Bolt Warrior 

YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Bill Robins, Paul Certa, March 1999
Page Views: 304
Submitted By: geoff georges on Feb 21, 2014

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Description 

A seldom done route. Maybe the code of the bolt warrior is to sandbag the trad climber. This route is listed as a 5.9 and is way harder- about the same or harder than Crackmaster Lambada. Most routes at Vantage tend to overrated, with a few exceptions.
This would be better with some cleaning.

Location 

next crack to the right of the mega classic Boschido.

Protection 

Pro to 2-3".Very long, double rack with hex's useful for undulating constrictions, several pumpy crux moves and be careful with chossy bits, no anchor, but many crack options up top.


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By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Mar 3, 2017

I climbed this 3/1/17 and still think it is hard, even with using the arete holds it seems more like 10b. I looked at having a bolted anchor on the face below the top and the rock is too crappy. There used to be bolts up on top, where it would be solid, but I won't bolt on top anymore due to hanger theft. The trad anchor options are good, but convoluted, use a cord-o-let.

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