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Calm as a Hindu Cow T 
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Coco's Boathouse 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Oct 15, 2016

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>


This is a long, mostly hands route. Start in a corner hidden behind a huge pillar. Step across an easy move on a bit of crummy rock to a splitter. Follow up past a bolt by some stacked nuggets in the crack (easy and more solid than they look). Follow a long #2 splitter that dwindles to a .75 or two and the anchor. 40m.

Despite the couple of slightly chunky sections, this has one of the better, longer perfect hands (#2 Camalots) sections around. I couldn't believe it hadn't been climbed before. I'd give four stars but for the short dirty sections. Perhaps it will clean up. I did clean everything I thought was dangerous.


Coco's Boathouse is behind a giant pillar (100') that has slipped down the hill a bit and is clearly visible on the approach to the right of the trail terminus and main part of the wall. Pretty sure its right of most of the routes in the book. Maybe a little less than half way to the end of the wall and the turn to Original Meat. 5-10 minutes from the top of the trail. Walk down and past the obvious massive pillar and then scramble up behind it from the south.


Camalots: One .5? Three or four .75s. Three or four 1s. As many 2s as you can get your hands on.

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By Karl kelley
Oct 31, 2016

Hey Chris
Nice find man!! Bitchin' route. Flat out fun from bottom to top. Can't believe this was not done long ago.
By chris Kalous
Nov 1, 2016

Thanks, Karl. Any better beta for a rack? We actually did this a couple seasons ago and I was just going off memory.

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