REI Community
Sacred Cow Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Calm as a Hindu Cow T 
Coco's Boathouse T 
Cowch Potato T 
Deal With It T 
Fatted Calf T 
Have a Cow T 
Karin's Corner T 
Milk Box, The T 
Needs Pineapple T 
Sacred Cow T 
Sample the Sausage T 
Steve Carruthers Memorial T 
Styminger, The T 
Surf and Turf T 
Twin Cam T 
Unknown Route T 
Vegetarian Corner T 

Coco's Boathouse 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 135'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Chris Kalous, Stephanie Bergner
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 276
Submitted By: chris Kalous on Oct 15, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a long, mostly hands route. Start in a corner hidden behind a huge pillar. Step across an easy move on a bit of crummy rock to a splitter. Follow up past a bolt by some stacked nuggets in the crack (easy and more solid than they look). Follow a long #2 splitter that dwindles to a .75 or two and the anchor. 40m.

Despite the couple of slightly chunky sections, this has one of the better, longer perfect hands (#2 Camalots) sections around. I couldn't believe it hadn't been climbed before. I'd give four stars but for the short dirty sections. Perhaps it will clean up. I did clean everything I thought was dangerous.

Location 

Coco's Boathouse is behind a giant pillar (100') that has slipped down the hill a bit and is clearly visible on the approach to the right of the trail terminus and main part of the wall. Pretty sure its right of most of the routes in the book. Maybe a little less than half way to the end of the wall and the turn to Original Meat. 5-10 minutes from the top of the trail. Walk down and past the obvious massive pillar and then scramble up behind it from the south.

Protection 

Camalots: One .5? Three or four .75s. Three or four 1s. As many 2s as you can get your hands on.


Comments on Coco's Boathouse Add Comment
Show which comments
By Karl kelley
Oct 31, 2016

Hey Chris
Nice find man!! Bitchin' route. Flat out fun from bottom to top. Can't believe this was not done long ago.
By chris Kalous
Nov 1, 2016

Thanks, Karl. Any better beta for a rack? We actually did this a couple seasons ago and I was just going off memory.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About