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Coco Crag
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YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Pier & Randy Marsh
Season: Anytime
Page Views: 5,163
Submitted By: 46and2 on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (131)
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Sheri TR'ing Cocopuss and nearing the top of the r...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


This is an EXCELLENT sport route on the left side of the Coco Crag about 3 feet right of the obvious chimney. Varied movements; great protection; and climbing that is much steeper than it appears from the ground; as good as any sport route in Red Rocks at the grade IMHO. Brock guidebook says 10b but it might be 10a'ish??


This is the first obvious bolted line just right of the chimney. Rappel from the anchors with one 60 meter rope; a 50 might make it too??


8 Bolts lead to some anchors on the slab above. The route is well protected and climbs great.

Photos of Cocopuss Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Great route!
Great route!
Rock Climbing Photo: SO FUN!!
Rock Climbing Photo: Moving through the steep section on Cocopuss
Moving through the steep section on Cocopuss
Rock Climbing Photo: Brian leading Cocopuss and LOVING this route; supe...
Brian leading Cocopuss and LOVING this route; supe...
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheri by the 3rd clip on Cocopuss
Sheri by the 3rd clip on Cocopuss
Rock Climbing Photo: Sheri backstepping through a steep section of Cocu...
Sheri backstepping through a steep section of Cocu...

Comments on Cocopuss Add Comment
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By Jon O'Brien
From: Nevada
Jul 20, 2009
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

i think the grade works if you stick to the bolts at the roof/arete, it's easy to go waay left and pull up on dyna-jugs but it's sketchily away and around from the bolt... that's my take on it anyway. it IS fun, the one on the right is awesome too!
By cachu
Apr 27, 2011
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b

Please update the protection. There are now 9 bolts with open loop anchors on top. 4-26-11.
By scotticusmaximus
From: Santa Cruz, CA
Apr 28, 2012

A joy of a climb! It has a little bit of everything mixed in. Add to that some nice views at the top and being away from the hustle and bustle of the popular crags and you have yourself a gem - definitely worth the hike out!
By Cunning Linguist
Mar 26, 2014

Anchor replaced with half inch stainless and mussies courtesy the ASCA.
By Scott360
From: Las Vegas
May 23, 2014
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Fun climb with a bit of variety--technical, balance moves as well as a bulge or two to pull. A wee bit more challenging if, through the first few blots, you stay right. Length: 70 feet--not very important to most, but the rope I had that day was a 45m (chopped 50m), and I measured a half length at 74'. I had approx. four feet remaining before climber got to anchor.
By Mees
From: Iowa
Apr 22, 2016

didn't climb as well as it looks, the holds take you left and the bolts take your right, resulting in an awkward bit of climbing. Fun route nonetheless
By Gabe H
From: New York
May 1, 2017
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Nice route, I believe easier if you stay left and just stretch back right a little to get the clips. Felt like a solid 10a. Really well protected, although I counted 9 bolts to the top!
By LB Edwards
From: Brooklyn, NY
Jun 15, 2017
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This was the crown jewel of a climb for our last day in Red Rocks - wish we came to this area first than trying to get on the low grade trad climbs in the Mecca. Shaded mid-day. It actually got a little chilly for us we had to use the ledge towards the top of this climb for a little warm up for the fingers. Did this in late-April.

I'm giving this a classic in comparison to the other climbs on this wall and everything else in Calico - next time we're hitting Big Bad Wolf.

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