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Coco Puffs 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Witt Boy
Page Views: 2,832
Submitted By: Chuck Parks on Jan 31, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (89)
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Easy climb


A sport route that also makes a good beginner trad lead. Climb the face just left of the corner/crack to meet up with the corner. Continue up the corner past a steep section, then out the right face of the corner to anchors.


Starts in a left-facing corner, to the right of the Comic Reliefs and Pit.


sport: 6 bolts, anchors

trad: light rack, hands to fingers, anchors

Photos of Coco Puffs Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: At the anchors
At the anchors
Rock Climbing Photo: Warming up
Warming up
Rock Climbing Photo: First bolt
First bolt
Rock Climbing Photo: Again

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By ryan baxter
Oct 8, 2008

hollow blocks before last bolt actually seem solid. be mindful, as they do flex when weighted. without these holds, the moves seem unlikely
By TKHouse
Apr 4, 2010

Fun climb to "go nuts" on. Ditch the cams! A set of stoppers is all you need for a light and enjoyable trad climb at South Clear.

The hollow flake at the top seems to be very near the point of breaking off, although I'm told its been that way for a few years. Ensure your belayer has a helmet on and is very attentive during the last few moves.
By DurtGrrl
Nov 21, 2010

FWIW - The hollow blocks below the last bolt are still there, but seemed sketchy. Without those, the moves are less than fun (I led it but relied on the belayer a bit much and mantled over to the ledge - ugly!).
By Mike Lambino
From: Jasper, Ga
Feb 28, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Doesn't feel like 5.7 when you exclude the X'ed out blocks. Last climb of the day, nice surprise at the end.
By Cody Ashe
From: Brevard
Dec 31, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Very Cool route, think its tougher tan a 5.7, but still a very cool route.
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013

Always harder than I remember it being, usually just do it for old time's sake while I'm here. Fun route for anyone, really.
By Gordy85 Gameson
From: Bowling Green, KY
Mar 22, 2015
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Great route for beginner's on trad. There is a ton of really bomber pro can definitely stitch this one up tight if you're feeling shaky. Fun roof to pull up near the top. You really only need a set of nuts, a few slings, and draws to protect this route, although there were a few spots that will take #1-3 cams. Awesome route!

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