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Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Routes Sorted
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Block, The T 
Castrum, The T 
Chessboard, The T 
Coco-Loco T 
Court Jester T 
Coyote In the Bushes T 
Crown Jewels T 
Drawbridge, The TR 
Duchess T 
Duchess Left T 
Duchess Pitch 2 Variation T 
Duchess Right T 
La Reina T 
Marchesa T 
Monaco S 
Not Just another Pretty Face T 
Paper or Plastic? T 
Pocket Pool S 
Route 1326 T 
Scaramouch T 
Swishbah T 
Swishbah Variations T 


YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Bill Todd and Rosie, November 1986
Page Views: 678
Submitted By: C Miller on Jan 1, 2005

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (7)
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BETA PHOTO: "Coco Loco" Photo by Blitzo.


Climb an easy but interesting thin crack/corner to a horizontal crack (medium pro here) where a traverse slightly right gives access to the upper portion of the route - a seam to face with a bolt. The crux moves past the bolt are balancy and tenuous and involve edges, sidepulls and overall insecurity - think classic Josh style climbing. Large cams are handy for an anchor in a grainy, flared horizontal crack 10' above the ledge where this finishes.

A fun climb that while seldom done is worthy of more attention. One star out of five.


This route is located on the left edge of the face with Crown Jewels and lies roughly 15' right of The Castrum.


bolt (3/8"), pro to 3.5"

Photos of Coco-Loco Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Coco Loco. Photo by Blitzo.
Coco Loco. Photo by Blitzo.

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