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Cocksmasher 

YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 230'
Original:  YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: FA: Bryan Bird, Jared Greer, and Dean Woods, 2004. 2nd and 3rd pitch: Joe French and Bryan Bird, 2006.
Page Views: 95
Submitted By: Anus Herder on May 26, 2017

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HNC to the right, Cocksmasher to the right

Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Cocksmasher starts just to the left of H.N.C in a left facing corner. This route is one of the easier and more pleasurable OW routes on this wall and the rock quality is pretty good. Pitch 2 and 3 can be combined with a 60m rope. The OW sections are super secure and don't even require big gear. Who knew OW could be so fun?

P1 Climbs a featured fingers to tight hands dihedral up to a 2 bolt anchor with webbing. This route shares an anchor with H.N.C.

P2 starts up a short slightly overhanging tight hands crack in a right facing corner and reaches a ledge. Create a gear belay or continue up and link pitch 3.

P3 starts off the small grassy ledge and climb up through wide sections with a tight hands crack in between before reaching a interesting move into a roof/bombay chimney with a finger crack on the left side, anchors are just after this OW section up to the left on a stance.

Protection 

Runners, Nuts, Double rack from fingers to big hands, single #4 (optional #5 & #6 for second 2 pitches.)

P1 bolted anchors, P3 bolted anchors. Rap the Route with 2 60m ropes

Location 

This route is located a few hundred yards to the left of the second tunnel window.
Park at the second to last turnout before the Zion-Mt. Caramel Tunnel. Follow a trail that leads through a wash and past some large house-sized boulders. Continue on the trail around the I'n'I and U'n'U buttress. Look for a left facing dihedral with a small overhang up 200ft.


Photos of Cocksmasher Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking down P3/2
Looking down P3/2
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of P2 Bulging tight hands yeehaa
Start of P2 Bulging tight hands yeehaa

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