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GPS: 35.81879, -106.16202
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Shared By: Anthony Stout on May 15, 2006 · Updates
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Warning Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

An area off the beaten path, with closely grouped routes in two different sections. An excellent selection of moderate climbs (5.10-5.11) on beautiful basalt. Routes here have nice springer anchors, allowing the last climber to easily lower off by just clipping through the shuts. However, please avoid premature anchor wear by using quick draws until the last person climbs the route.

The crag gets afternoon shade in the summer time. Since sun hits it until noon, however, this area may be pretty warm in mid summer. Best time is probably March through May and September through November. Not a winter crag, as little sun hits the rock from December to February.

Getting There Suggest change

The Cockscomb Crag area about a mile down the main arroyo from Diablo Canyon. The name comes from the basalt pillars at the far right end of the crag, which resemble the top of a roosters head There are two ways to get to there:

1) Best Approach: "drive past the normal Diablo turnoff and continue around the Sun Devil Mesa and on toward the Rio Grande. After you pass a pump station just off the road on your left, continue about 0.3 miles to the first crossroad that goes in both directions. Turn left, follow the road to another pump station (~100 yards), and park on the CCC side of the station. Walk down into the arroyo that runs behind the station and follow it (under or over the barbed wire fence) toward the main Diablo arroyo (the fence marks entry into National Forest from BLM land). Cross the main arroyo to a prominent wash on the other side. The trail starts up this wash then veers right onto a well worn and cairned trail all the way to the crag. Car to crag will take 20 to 45 minutes, depending on if you are superhuman or more normal(R. Bradshaw)."

2) (Not recommended, will take a lot longer than #1): From the main Diablo climbing area (the one where you see the large, looming sundevil wall), hike the main wash through the sand for about 1.5 miles. Eventually you will see the cockscomb crag high up and to your left. Look for the trail from the river bottom that heads up to the crag.

36 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Cockscomb Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 45
The Egg
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 47
The Chicken
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 28
Chicken Scratch
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 27
Finger Lichen Good
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 24
Technical Fowl
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
The Other Side
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 27
Casada Noodle Soup
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 15
Cockeyed
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 19
Rooster Tail
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 20
Chicken Out
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 26
Cruisin for Chicks
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 11
Chicks with Ricks
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Chicken Thief
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 11
Cock-a-Doodle-Do
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
Chicken Little
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Egg Chicken Little Area
 45
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
The Chicken Chicken Little Area
 47
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Chicken Scratch Chicken Little Area
 28
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Finger Lichen Good Poultrygeist Area
 27
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Technical Fowl Chicken Little Area
 24
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
The Other Side Other Side
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Casada Noodle Soup Chicken Little Area
 27
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cockeyed Poultrygeist Area
 15
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Rooster Tail Chicken Little Area
 19
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Chicken Out Poultrygeist Area
 20
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Cruisin for Chicks Chicken Little Area
 26
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
Chicks with Ricks Poultrygeist Area
 11
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chicken Thief Chicken Little Area
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Cock-a-Doodle-Do Poultrygeist Area
 11
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Chicken Little Chicken Little Area
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cockscomb Crag »

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