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Cockroach 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 160'
Original:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII ZA: 20 British: E2 5b PG13 [details]
FA: D. Kralovic, B. Workman
Page Views: 245
Submitted By: wakaranai on Nov 24, 2013

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Steven at the crux of Cockroach 10c

Description 

scramble up to the mossy bench and begin with some brittle serpentine past the first bolt. Continue up the slab with a thin seam using bolts small gear and head towards the thin crack through the bulge above. Climb through the bulge (crux) and then head left to some anchor bolts. Either belay here or clip a bolt and continue on up the featured face past 4 more bolts to a step over left at the roof. Easy but run out climbing leads to a tree belay .

Location 

to the left of Irish Spring

Protection 

Gear to 0.75"/7 bolts


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By wakaranai
From: Mount Vernon, WA
May 31, 2015

It's far from perfect but many woo hoos! have been heard from those who complete this monster pitch. Use long runners at times and you wont struggle with rope drag at the top which is easy yet run out, no fall territory.
By David Swayne
Aug 11, 2017
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13

Great climb. Can be done as one or two pitches. 70m needed for one pitch. make sure to get a few good pieces in low bulge/crack crux. rock is clean but a bit soft in that section. Consider bringing a piece of webbing to leave at either of the anchors.

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