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Cockpit 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Pon, 2002
Page Views: 56
Submitted By: JFM on Jun 30, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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BETA PHOTO: Approximate routes for Cockpit, 5.7-, (blue); Flig...

Description 

Follow the apparent, right-trending crevice up to the larger/more left tree at a large ledge.

As for the rest of the climbs on the lower tier, this one has lots of dirt, vegetation, and lichen, so watch those feet! Also, some of the flakes may pull off if you tug too hard (trust me on this one).

Location 

This route is very apparent. You can't miss it!

Belay from above at the larger tree a few steps below the beginning of Touch and Go (on the upper tier). To descend, walk around behind the big tree and down to the smaller tree.

Bolted rap anchors (one cold-shut and one hanger with chain) will get you down, about 80'.

Protection 

SR to #4 Tech Friend, tree anchor. Gillett's guide indicates that there were once slings on the tree, but as of 6/30/13, the tree was au naturel.


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By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Jul 28, 2013
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

There is potential in this route, but it needs a LOT of cleaning. Protects fine with a rack to 2", I brought the #4 and didn't bother placing it.
Also, it's nowhere near 5.7, more like 5.4.
By JFM
Aug 17, 2013

Justin-- I agree, not 5.7, but when I am entering these routes I am going by the guidebook grade. The MP consensus scheme will show the "real" grade eventually!
By Justin Brunson
From: Broomfield CO
Mar 25, 2015
rating: 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c

That's a good practice, J.

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