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Cock-a-Doodle-Doo T 
Old Route, The T 

Cock-a-Doodle-Doo 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Ed Palen & Laurie Daniels
Page Views: 57
Submitted By: Robert Hall on Apr 28, 2017

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Description 

When I did this shortly after Ed had put it in (now 20 years ago, in 1997) the fixed anchor was 2 pitons; I don't know if they have been replaced with something more permanent (ss bolts ?) but anyone climbing it should be prepared to maybe leave a back-up piece.

I don't remember the leading as 5.9, so maybe I led the 5.7 variation to the left and then TR'd the 5.9(?)

START: To the right of where the hiking trail makes a sharp left to swing around the cliff. Pretty much the "local" height-of-land.

The 5.7 Variation starts in a corner about 10 ft left of the main route, which starts in a depression formed by opposing corners. It then moves right to the main route.

Adirondack Rock indicates the ceiling on the main route is climbed "on the left". That guidebook also indicates there is a seldom-done, dirty 2nd pitch.

It's too bad that the variation can't go straight and connect with the top pitch of (Wiessner's) Std Route.

Protection 

Std Rack

LOCATION / APPROACH 

When I did this route the standard approach was to take the hiking trail 1 - 1 1/4 hrs up to the second trail junc. Here we went up the trail to the left for a minute or two, then cut right "bushwhacking" easily through open hardwood forest (hence the quote marks) towards the right, towards the col and on to the cliff. Cock-a-Doodle Doo is on the right end of the cliff, Old Route to the left.

I'm not sure if this is a quicker approach than either the approach described for "Old Route" here on MtnProject, or the approach described in Adirondack Rock 2nd Edition, but it probably is safer and doesn't include any descent in the ascent to the base of the cliff.


Comments on Cock-a-Doodle-Doo Add Comment
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By Nolan Huther
From: Clarkson University
May 1, 2017

This route is easy to spot if you just look up at the cliff as you walk along the base of the cliff. The "Devil's Tower-like stem-box" as the guidebook describes it is quite obvious, and enticing.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
May 1, 2017

Nolan: Thanks for the further Beta!

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