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Elevation: 274 ft
GPS: 45.44046, -66.29927
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 133,307 total · 796/month
Shared By: Jeff St. Pierre on Jun 15, 2010 · Updates
Admins: Dom Caron, Ian Lingley, Greg Hughes
Warning Access Issue: This cliff is on CFB Gagetown property and all users must check in with Range Control prior to climbing. Seasonal raptor closure from April 1 to August 1. The walls from Burrough's to Pooh Corner are off limits during the closure. DetailsDrop down

Description Suggest change

This area holds the largest concentration of routes in the Welsford area, or all of New Brunswick for that matter. Trad, mixed gear and occasional sport routes. Quality rock abounds. Routes range in length from 30 to 200 feet. It is possible to link together 3 or 4 pitches to provide somewhat of a multi pitch experience but the majority of the climbing is single pitch. There are a high number of cracks but few pure crack climbs. The gear is generally good but be on the lookout for suspect rock as there are a few locations where the rock is less than bomber. This is generally a very quiet, out of the way area to climb. It is not uncommon for climbers to show up here on a weekday and have the entire cliff to themselves. The current guidebook, authored by Dominic Caron, is now either sold out or very copies remain available. Please respect local access regulations. This cliff is on CFB Gagetown property and is strictly regulated. Members of Ascent New Brunswick are permitted to call in for access. Everyone else must go to Camp Petersville (12 k north on route 7) to obtain a day use pass from Range Control. Please practise Leave No Trace principles. There is a spring directly below Joe's Garage. Be certain not to deposit human waste anywhere within 60 meters of the spring. In the event of an emergency call 911 and Range Control 506-422-2131.

Getting There Suggest change

2km South of the Rt101/Rt7 intersection Cochrane Lane turns off east, crosses the Nerepis Rivere and bends south. You'll notice a big yellow sign marking the trailhead, and just after this is a large gravel pit on the northeast side of the road, with some bricks and structures inside it. Park on the southwest side of the road across from the gravel pit at a small pulloff. You'll find the parking lot just before the road turns into a dirt road - do not continue further down the road as this is private property. Cross the farmer's field near the gravel pit and follow the trail along the back of the field. Dogs MUST be on leashes.

328 Total Climbs

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Location: Cochrane Lane Cliffs Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Cochrane Lane Cliffs

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
 11
Cheekbone Corner Direct
Trad 2 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 12
Incognito
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
 16
About a Rope
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
Astroboy Direct
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 15
A Warm and Sultry Evening
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 11
Sticky Fingers
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 11
Joint Venture
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
 10
Catholic Girls
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 12
Hitch-Hiker
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 10
Ziggy Piggy
Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 14
Bone Machine
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
Inhuman Erazer Direct
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Montezuma's Revenge
Trad, Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 8
The Central Scrutinizer
Trad, Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 9
Farewell to Arms
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Cheekbone Corner Direct Cheekbone area
 11
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R Trad 2 pitches
Incognito Pyramid Wall Area
 12
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
About a Rope Pyramid Wall Area
 16
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 Trad
Astroboy Direct Joe's Garage
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
A Warm and Sultry Evening Minkey Wall
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sticky Fingers Joe's Garage
 11
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Joint Venture Attic
 11
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Sport
Catholic Girls Joe's Garage
 10
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 Trad
Hitch-Hiker Attic
 12
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Ziggy Piggy Dawn Walls > Upper Dawn Wall
 10
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Bone Machine Joe's Garage
 14
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Inhuman Erazer Direct Minkey Wall
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Montezuma's Revenge Pyramid Wall Area
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad, Sport
The Central Scrutinizer Joe's Garage
 8
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad, Sport
Farewell to Arms Exfoliated
 9
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
More Classic Climbs in Cochrane Lane Cliffs »

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