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Cocaine Rodeo 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Sport, 105'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Aaron Huey
Page Views: 9,158
Submitted By: GabeO on Jul 7, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (157)
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Me on cocaine rodeo. Photo by Rayna McGinnis.


This superb route has several distinct cruxes, with good rests in between. The rock is super-compact throughout, with pinches, pockets, and crimps galore. For the most part, it gently overhangs, though there is also a small bulge, and some slabby sections.


The first route to the right of the roof. Start directly in front of the tree on a super-clean face.


15 bolts

Photos of Cocaine Rodeo Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Cocaine Rodeo. Aug '14.
Cocaine Rodeo. Aug '14.
Rock Climbing Photo: Jon on the Rodeo.
Jon on the Rodeo.

Comments on Cocaine Rodeo Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Aug 28, 2017
By HoseBeats
Jul 7, 2010
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

This route is as good as 12a gets.
By Nick Stayner
From: Wymont Kingdom
Jun 26, 2012

Totally fantastic. You pull a tough move or two, get a rest, then glance up and see there's still a TON to go! Mega. Might want to watch it if lowering with a 60m.
By John Dubya
Aug 18, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Wow what a great climb! There's really not a shut-down move on the climb so the crux seems to be keeping the pump at bay. Seems evident that this route gets some traffic by the polished black foot holds covered in rubber...adds a little difficulty to the crux moves.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 20, 2013

May be the best 12a I have done. Absolutely amazing climb!
By Jean Spencer
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 2, 2013

Now that was fun! Especially liked the you're-not-done-yet crux at the top.
By canyonclimber
From: Casper WY
Jan 12, 2014

Wohoo, my first 12a lead at 43 years of age!
By Aaron Furman
Jul 27, 2015


Crux is the opening sequence and then just above the bulge, be confident and mono hard to the mega holds just out of reach.
By Chris Winter
From: Portland, OR
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Beautiful route! This route could use a modern sport anchor. The cold shut is worn at least half way through.
By Top Rope Hero
From: Was Estes Park, now homeless
Sep 8, 2015
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

"There's really not a shut-down move on the climb..."

Wwwwwwwhhhhhaaaaaa?!?! Are you high? First, there's that must-do, left-hand mono at the very beginning of the first bulge...then before the finishing moves you have to reach up and high step INTO an overhead gaston.

PLUS...if'n you didn't know to go beta right at the very beginning instead of trying that thin, desperate, 5.27d left sequence (SPOILER ALERT), then you'd likely get shut down THERE pretty hard.

I'd certainly call all THOSE stopper moves...not that they did...
By Spencer Scott
From: Kansas City, MO
Aug 29, 2016

Move after move after move after move. 3 independent cruxs. This route will straight up blow your mind.
By Franck Vee
Aug 8, 2017
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

@ Toprope: at least in my understanding of a "stopper move", it is a move that is much harder than the rest of the route and could possibly just not be passable by someone redpointing that grade. You're more likely to find that in a one-move wonder (where the grade is made mostly by a single, well-defined crux that is definitely solid at the grade).

Cocaine has indeed no such move - I think anyone who "can climb" (redpoint or handdog) 12a can make it to the top of Cocaine.
By Michael Schmenk
From: South Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 28, 2017

The anchors on this route look super sketch currently. It's open fish hook style anchors, that are very worn, with chains hanging off them. The chains hanging off the hooks almost came off while I was cleaning the route so beware.

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