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Cocaine Connection 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Sport, 2 pitches
Original:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
Page Views: 2,013
Submitted By: Tom Bath on Nov 3, 2009

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Looking up the second pitch of Cocaine Connection

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Friction climbing up the obvious slab on the left side of the buttress. The climb starts with a crux traverse and then eases up above.
A good approach for Cocaine Crack or alternate start to R&D.
Two ropes are needed to rappel from the 1st anchor.



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Rock Climbing Photo: looking down Cocaine Connection p1, climbing up 10...
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By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
Dec 21, 2009

The bolt line on this seems illogical compared to where you want to climb.
By Tom Bath
From: Kent, Wa
Dec 21, 2009

I agree sqwirll. The route traverses at the start when a more direct line would be easier and just as clean. I can only assume that when the route was put up there was some vegetation or dirt that forced the climb to take the existing route.
By Mark Straub
From: Berkeley, CA
Jun 13, 2010

I only saw two bolts, so I ran it out to the #3 crack. That works fine. Much better start to R&D than the standard scrambling, though.
By Sherri Lewis
From: Sequim, WA
Sep 24, 2011

Add my vote to what Sqwirll said. The bolt placements seem to take you where you don't want to go and can create some awful rope drag. The second time I did this route I found it easier to skip a few of the bolts; the runout was more palatable than making the awkward moves to clip all the bolts and deal with the resulting rope drag.
By Ryan Canfield
From: North Bend, WA
Oct 12, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I agree with sqwirll as well. The bolt placements are bad.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
Feb 11, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I will add that there used to be an older route starting at about the same place, but went straight up the 1st slab and had two rusty old bolt/hangers- probably what M. Straub was on.
I have seen biners on the upper bolt before, left when someone realized they were not on the " connection". So maybe that is why the Connection route traverses over to the right. I usually skip the one bolt that is low and left or use long slings.

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