REI Community
search
Advanced
Scarface
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Banditos !  T 
Anal Leakage T 
Big Guy T 
Big Jon T 
Black Uhuru T 
Carlito's Way T 
Cement Shoes T 
Cleaner, The T 
Cocaine Blues T 
Columbian Hit Man T 
Comic Relief T 
Cross Dihedral T 
Death of a Cowboy T 
Desert Shield T 
Desert Sunset T 
Desert Vuarnet T 
Dirt Cheap T 
Fat Farm, The T 
Fertile Crescent T 
He's up Here T 
Internal Scar T 
Lt. Uhuru T 
Mantel Illness T 
Montana Gangster T 
My Little Friend T 
Not That Funny T 
Nubian Slave T 
Polaris T 
Pop Quiz (aka Brown on Butter) T 
Powder Your Nose T 
Route 666 T 
Route of All Evil T 
Scard Face  T 
Scarface T 
Shylock, The T 
Sicilian T 
Spam T 
Steel Pulse T 
Sudden Impact T 
Torque Wrench T 
Trading Places T 
Twitch T 
Unknown (just right of Spam) T 
unknown (Wide Hands LF Corner) T 
Unknown 10 T 
Unknown 10+ T 
Unknown 5.9 T 
Unknown Bandito Route T 
Unknown name( 20 in 2nd edition) T 
Unnamed 10- T 
Unnamed 5.9 - approx 100 ft L of Scarface T 
Wavy Gravy T 
Way Of The Gun T 
Where's Carruthers? T 
Your Mama T 

Cocaine Blues 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Trad, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c [details]
FA: Pat Kingsbury, Trevor Bowman 2/7/12
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 383
Submitted By: Trevor Bowman on Jun 22, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Pat finishing up the crux bulge on the FA. Photo b...

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Mistakenly labeled as 5.12 in the newest Creek book.
Execute an awkward boulder start to the ledge 15' up. A nice left-facing corner with rattly fists or butterflies (there's a thin-hand to fingercrack on the right wall) leads to the slanting upper bulge which pinches down from off-fist to cups where it rolls over. A challenging wide line!
The rock along the right-hand thin crack and on the right face along the bulge is a bit crunchy.

Location 

Between Nubian Slave and The Sicilian.

Protection 

(2).5,.75 (1)1 (2)3, new 4, old 4 (3)new 5--BD sizes
chain/cold shut anchor


Comments on Cocaine Blues Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · People · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About