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Cobra 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 140'
Original:  YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Topher Donahue
Season: Not hot
Page Views: 88
Submitted By: michalm on May 2, 2017

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RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Cobra is Quarter of a Man's big, bad brother. This route will get you pumped.

Start up some soft, hollow rock moving into a right-facing flake that takes tips-sized gear (smaller than yellow alien) (11ish). Rock onto a sloping ledge and clip a bolt, then continue with more balancy, bouldery moves (11+ish) into the bottom of the corner, where the rock is pretty crappy. A med-large nut or two can be placed above the bolt in a finger slot, but please don't fall here. The rock to this point is less than stellar.

Place a #1 and bust up the left facing corner with .5s that go into steep .75s. Eventually the .75s widen into very sustained black metolius/#2 friends for the next 90+ feet past multiple bulges with very few rests. Catch your breath, plug a piece with a quickdraw in the roof, and then bust out the roof on .75s and #2 friends to a cruxy lip encounter that will be quite strenuous for all but the very small-handed. It's not over until you are clipping the chains.
This route is definitely harder than Quarter of a Man. 12-/12 seems fair.
Watch out for a few loose blocks at the topout.

This route will be hard if you can't get thin hands in #2 friends. I could barely get thin hands in the crack.

We lowered with an 80m rope with a few meters left over.

CAUTION: The left side of the corner seems to be formed by a hollow plate 1-2" thick on the outside. Either place your cams deeper than usual or place gear more frequently. The rock on the left sounds pretty hollow until about 2/3 of the way up the route! I did not fall so I cannot vouch for the integrity of the gear.

Location 

Find the large, left-facing corner capped by a roof a couple hundred feet to the right of Stealth Belly and Lizard Lust. There is a bolt 25-30 feet up after a right-facing tips flake

Protection 

What I would bring next time:
1 blue alien
2 green alien/.3
1 quickdraw
A couple med/large nuts
2 .5
3-5 .75
As many #2 friends as you can find (6-8 would be adequate...I only had 3)
2-3 #1 (#1s can be squeezed in a few spots up higher, but are mostly overcammed)
A #4 could potentially be used in a wide section 2/3 of the way up to supplement small gear.
Bring some chains, quicklinks, cord or webbing to replace the old tat on the anchors.


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