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Cob Rock

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Aid Crack T 
Brownies In The Basin T,S 
Corn on the Cob T,S 
Crystal Arete 
Devil's Dream T 
East Crack T 
Eat Left T 
Eat Right T 
Empor T 
Empor Scary Variant T 
Face Problem 
Face Route T,TR 
Game, The 
Goat, The T,TR 
Headless Horseman, The 
Hug, The 
Hurley Direct T 
Huston Crack T 
Indistinction T,S 
Left Huge aka The Hug Left 
Mantle Arete 
Ms. Fanny Le Pump T 
Night Vision T,S 
North Face Center T 
North Face Left T 
Northwest Corner T 
Othello T 
Right Crack T 
Sleepy Hollow 
South Crack (Unknown) T 
Thunder Road S 
Under The Boardwalk 
West Cracks T 
West Dihedral T 
West Rib T 
Unsorted Routes:

Cob Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,650'
Location: 40.0005, -105.3895 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 72,399
Administrators: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Michael Komarnitsky on Jan 1, 2001
Forecast:
Tonight

41°
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Thursday

65° | 42°
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66° | 36°
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48° | 32°
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  • Description 

    This is a solid slab that will be cooler than a majority of rocks in the canyon due to its shaded north-facing location. Top access is via a trail shortly west of the rock. There are a number of enticing trad crack routes, many moderate and excellent for beginning trad leaders. Cob has a number of classic climbs on it, put up in the '50s and '60s.

    L->R

    East Face
    A. Scratch?, 12-, 1p, gear.
    B. Leave it of Lead It?, 12, 1p, gear.
    C. Racing The Sun?, 11 X, 1p, bolt, gear or TR.
    D. Devil's Dream, 9, 1p, 70', gear.
    E. Eat Left, 10- PG-13, 1p, 50', gear.
    F. Eat Right, 10 PG-13, 1p, 50', gear.
    G. Body Talk?, 9+, 1p, gear.
    H. Othello, 10, 1p, 60', gear.

    North Face
    I. Ms. Fanny Le- Pump, 11, 1p, gear.
    J. Indistinction, 7+, 1p, gear.
    K. Right Crack, 6, 1p, gear.
    L. Night Vision, 10 PG-13, 2p, gear & bolts.
    M. Huston Crack, 9-, 1p, 60', gear.
    N. Aid Crack, 10+ R, 1p, 60', gear.
    O. Face Route 11- X, 1p, 60', gear.
    P. The Goat, 9, 1p, gear.
    Q. East Crack, 10-, 2p, gear.
    R. North Face Left, 8-, 2p, 210', gear.
    S. North Face Center, 7+, 2p, 210', gear.
    T. Empor, 8-, 2p, 210', gear.

    Northwest bit
    U. Variation, 9 R, 2p, 210', gear.
    V. Northwest Corner, 8, 2p, 200', gear.
    West Face
    W. Hurley Direct, 10-, 2p, gear.
    X. Brownies in The Basin, 9+ X, now 9+, 1-2p, bolts & gear.
    Y. West Crack?, 9+, 2p, gear.
    A. West Rib, 8, 2p, gear.
    AA. West Dihedral, 8, 2p, gear.
    BB. Upper West Face, ?
    CC. Thunder Road, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
    DD. Corn on the Cob, 10, 1p, 70', bolts.

    Getting There 

    About 6.1 miles up the canyon, on the south side of Boulder Canyon there's a pullout on the left side of the road beneath the rock. It's obvious. Crossing the river can be sketchy; we found it to be easiest via some rocks that are at the east edge of the pullout. Find the trail running to the right and up to the base of the rock.

    Climbing Season



    Weather station 4.1 miles from here

    35 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',15],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',6],['5.10',8],['5.11',2],['5.12',1],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',3],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',1],['V10-11',3],['V12-13',1],['>=V14',1]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Cob Rock

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Cob Rock:
    Face Problem   V3 6A     Boulder, 20'   
    Left Huge aka The Hug Left   V8-9 7B+     Boulder, 12'   
    The Hug   V10-11 8A PG13     Boulder, 10'   
    North Face Center   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
    Empor   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 220'   
    Northwest Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    North Face Left   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 220'   
    West Rib   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Huston Crack   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
    East Crack   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Night Vision   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Sport, 3 pitches   
    Othello   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Aid Crack   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    Ms. Fanny Le Pump   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch   
    Thunder Road   5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Cob Rock

    Featured Route For Cob Rock
    Rock Climbing Photo: Ben Mottinger starts up the confusing first pitch ...

    Empor 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Colorado : Boulder Canyon : Cob Rock
    3 short pitches: P1. Scramble 10 feet up from a inset face on the lower right hand side of the face, to a flat area with a large boulder to the right (you can also access by slipping underneath the large boulder from farther to the west). Head up the right-facing dihedral to above the boulder, then follow the flake up and right. Belay at the nice ledge to your left.P2: Climb another right-facing dihedral with a cold, deep crack. Reach a slot that runs up and left, and belay on a small ledge ~5 f...[more]   Browse More Classics in Colorado

    Photos of Cob Rock Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: View of Cob from Blob. Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
    View of Cob from Blob. Photo: Dave Fiorucci.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cob rock tyrolean traverse, Boulder Creek was angr...
    BETA PHOTO: Cob rock tyrolean traverse, Boulder Creek was angr...
    Rock Climbing Photo: This photo shows the entire line of Empor with the...
    BETA PHOTO: This photo shows the entire line of Empor with the...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cob Rock as seen from the top of Happy Hour Crag. ...
    Cob Rock as seen from the top of Happy Hour Crag. ...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Map of BC from Cob Rock to Boulder Falls.
    BETA PHOTO: Map of BC from Cob Rock to Boulder Falls.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Clint locks on top of second pitch of North Face C...
    Clint locks on top of second pitch of North Face C...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the river via the Tyrolean traverse. Boul...
    BETA PHOTO: Crossing the river via the Tyrolean traverse. Boul...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cob Rock from the parking lot on the other side of...
    BETA PHOTO: Cob Rock from the parking lot on the other side of...
    Rock Climbing Photo: The approach can be daunting, especially if you ar...
    The approach can be daunting, especially if you ar...
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    Rock Climbing Photo: My wife making the traverse across the creek - she...
    BETA PHOTO: My wife making the traverse across the creek - she...
    Rock Climbing Photo:
    BETA PHOTO
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cob Rock.
    Cob Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Crossing the river.
    Crossing the river.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cob Rock.  Photo taken from across the road on Blo...
    BETA PHOTO: Cob Rock. Photo taken from across the road on Blo...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Cob Rock from the trail to Blob Rock.
    BETA PHOTO: Cob Rock from the trail to Blob Rock.
    Rock Climbing Photo: Because Cob Rock faces North and stays cool, the c...
    Because Cob Rock faces North and stays cool, the c...
    Rock Climbing Photo: Two unknown climbers descending from the new rappe...
    BETA PHOTO: Two unknown climbers descending from the new rappe...

    Comments on Cob Rock Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 6, 2016
    By Darrin Stein
    From: Vancouver, WA
    Jan 8, 2002
    I'm not going to comment on any one particular route. From this page, if anyone pulls the drop down for the routes, you will see all the stars listed. A GREAT crag, despite the close proximaty to the road and it being so crowded.
    By Greg Kneser
    Sep 30, 2002
    The traverse has been taken down, but with the drought this year it's not necessary. There are _many_ safe rock hopping ways to get to Cob Rock right now (September 2002)
    By James Balasalle
    Jun 1, 2003
    Tried to get here on 5/30/03... Didn't happen. The traverse isn't there, and the creek is raging. Wading the creek seemed pretty much un-doable, as the water looked to be at about class II-III whitewater. This was a bummer because there was NO-ONE there... wonder why.
    By Shawn Shannon
    From: Everett, WA
    Jun 14, 2003
    Any word if a traverse across the river has been set up? Also, if there isn't one is there any alternatives to reach the rock? thanks...
    By Sue Rice
    Aug 2, 2003
    I was out here in July. Was this the traverse that the climber got pinned at the creek by a boulder?
    By Ted Lanzano
    From: Boulder, CO
    Aug 14, 2003
    I ran into an employee from the Department of Transportation who told me he was going to cut the rope traverse over the creek at Cob. He said the rope is attached to State property (the gaurd rail) which is against the law. I told him to wait a few days and put up a notice explaining the situation and not leave climbers stranded on the other side. He appeared to of waited because as of yesterday (8/13) the rope was still installed. In any case, he could come back and cut it and it is probably best to move the traverse back to the tree and off the gaurd rail.
    By Scott Conner
    From: Lyons, CO
    Aug 14, 2003
    The tyrolean for Cob and Sherwood Forrest are no longer needed. The creek can be safely crossed in calf deep water and it's almost possible to rock hop.
    By Anonymous Coward
    Sep 1, 2003
    Was on the Northwest face yesterday, and it seems the big white spot in the picture where routes come together is where there is a massive 2-ton rock that is loose. I know this because I was about to set an anchor in and when I shook the TCU a little the whole damn thing moved. It's set in place well, but be aware! Cheers. brian w
    By Darren O'Connor
    Jun 24, 2005
    I just crossed the creek on the fraying rope near Sherwood Forest and hiked down to Cob Rock. I was disturbed to find three new bolts on the face on the top pitch of Empor, near the 5.7 alternate finish. The 3rd bolt didn't have a hanger. Anyone know who put this up?

    It seems rather contrived to me to put 3 bolts in at the top of a bunch of classic 5.7's and 5.8's. I happily climb the new bolted routes in the canyon, but I think it's out of place to be bolting a 20' piece of rock that you have to climb moderate routes with gear to approach. Perhaps my opinion is colored by my long time enjoyment of this, my favorite rock in the canyon.
    By Mark Griffin
    From: Boulder, CO
    May 3, 2007
    Used the tyrolean today (5/3/07) and it works smashingly but just barely keeps you out of the water. Recommend dragging your packs across separately to keep them dry.

    • *EDIT: Tyrolean is fixed, nice 'n high above the creek. June 2007. Thanks to whomever did this.

    Does anyone know what the bolted line just right of Hurley Direct is?
    The first bolt hanger is missing, then three more bolts to a sling anchor below a nice right leaning finger/hand crack.
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    May 4, 2007
    Yeah- Brownies In The Basin

    It *WAS* 'Brownies in the Basin,' but someone retro-bolted it.
    By Stephanovich
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 23, 2007
    Yahoo, Love Cob. All routes are quality!! One particular one,-I was wishing for more info of. Yesterday 6-22-07 w/ Pam Porskinak (sorry Philo I had to) I climbed up Hurley Direct (5.10- ?). Traversed into Empor (5.7ish-) and up the V-slot. From there, there are two bolts to a bolt stud. Face w/ small holds to a sloping dish (directly below the stud), I think this might be the crux (5.10+ or 5.11??). I might have made it harder, instead of using a stopper I had a maschine nut and "Lucky" bolt hanger, which I "placed" on the stud- gave it a traddier feel, clipped a draw and fell. LOL. Tim and Betheny whom I met, gave me enough motivation to do it on my second try, yet the hanger was in place at that point. I must try again, in the fashion of the first go. does any body know what it is?
    Culp climbed the face years ago w/o the bolts in place, but veered off to the right joining the 5.7 splitter-like crack of Empor. I think that's so cool man.
    That day I used the following gear for my attempt:
    #0.5 WC Friend (on Hurley Direct), two shoulder length slings w/ crabiners for the old pitons (on Empor), two quick draws for the bolts (on the "unknown" face), "lucky" bolthanger + the nut for it and two biners, sling and locker for tree belay, 1 pitch from ground to belay tree (60m). Super fun day.
    By kevinnlong
    From: Boulder, CO
    Jun 18, 2008
    A minor correction; many of the moderate classic lines were put up in the '50s (Empor and North Face Center) by the standard incredibles of that time! They had eyes for classic lines. Cob Rock is filled with them.
    By jason lamere
    Jun 23, 2009
    I had to bail today do to thunder and lightning. I left a sling and a couple of carabiners. If you grab them could you please e-mail me at jason.lamere@gmail.com.

    Thanks
    By Don Bushey
    Jun 15, 2010
    Wow- I was about to cross the highly suspect tyrolean last night over to Cob and it looked waayyy scary. Has anyone crossed this with the recent high water and lived??
    By Luke Childers
    Jun 23, 2010
    Did "Left Huge" today... onsight.... For V9? It seemed a bit soft? It would be my 1st V9 onsight.... I was thinking it was more like V8 ish or so, but who is to say for sure? It was a cool line that suited my style, but in 20 years of climbing I've never crush a V9er like I did this one.... I wounder what others may think? Good line with good shade. Fun day on good stone. Odd more info is not available on the bouldering at "Cob Rock."
    By Peter Beal
    From: Boulder Colorado
    Jun 24, 2010
    Luke, some info is up at my blog guide
    www.bouldercanyonbouldering.blogspot.com
    By kevin murphy
    From: Lafayette, Colorado
    Jun 9, 2013
    Tyrolean looks very suspect. Did not trust it, sun burned and many nicks. Water is raging as well.
    By Jason Haas
    Aug 1, 2013
    There is a new rappel route from the summit. It was installed to help mitigate the degradation of the standard walk off, which is in major disrepair. There are two chain anchors near the summit, basically between the top of Empor and Northwest Corner. There is another rap station on a small ledge between those two routes for a second rappel. Two raps with one 60-meter rope gets you down.
    By Steven Crisp
    Aug 12, 2013
    Instead of installing a rap route over a very popular route with clusters of people trying to rap down, why not just improve the walkoff as they do in Eldo? Couple volunteers a couple days. Also the tyrolean is shit and needs more attention than the rappel.
    By Leo Paik
    Administrator
    From: Westminster, Colorado
    Aug 13, 2013
    Steven, there is a decent forum post going on this topic. To summarize: this is not an official trail in the eyes of the National Forest Service and getting official sanction to do such would occur on a different time scale than at Eldorado Canyon State Park. We have it so good at Eldo.
    By Matt DiTullio
    From: Boulder, Colorado
    Oct 25, 2013
    Did anyone happen to find a large purple cam or medium yellow cam on Empor or North Face Center on Cob Rock in the last 2 weeks? Or is anyone planning on climbing there in the next few days? Please email me if you said yes to either of these! Thanks!
    By Tony B
    From: Around Boulder, CO
    Jun 10, 2015
    So what is the 3-bolt variation up and left of the last Pitch of Empor? It goes up from the left-leaning corner, then up 5 meters of easy terrain to a 1st bolt, a more moderate moves to a second bolt, then up a few harder moves to a 3rd, hangerless bolt (swage on a stopper and rely on nerves and friction). Then up and right to an exit on harder still moves.
    Maybe 5.11?
    Anybody got a story on this thing?
    By Erin84
    Jul 22, 2015
    Anyone find a rather shiny 0.5 BD on Empor (but could be a belay for other routes as well?), please PM me. Thanks :)
    By JamesMartin
    Aug 16, 2015
    LOST: 70m rope - Mammut Infinity - blue - COB ROCK, Boulder Canyon.

    Hello all,

    I was climbing at Cob Rock yesterday (8/15/15), specifically North Face Center route, ending at 2pm. I left my rope at the base of the climb before heading out - 70m Mammut Infinity in a black Metolius rope backpack. If you managed to snag it on your way out, please give me a ring at (207)450-7212. $50 reward.

    Thanks,
    James
    By Zachary Hanners
    Jun 6, 2016
    Hey all,

    Got my rope stuck on the rappel down today 6/6/16. If anyone has the heart to undo it from the horn on their rap down and return it to me, it would mean the world. My phone number is 401-864-7675. Thanks so much for considering.

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