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Coalition of the Willing 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 180'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Neil Monteith & Erik Ferjenstik 10/08
Page Views: 189
Submitted By: Nicholas L. on Mar 30, 2015

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BETA PHOTO: Pirate's Belly wall from our boat.

Description 

The left approach pitch (Pitch 1A, 5.9- called Severed Testicle) will be where you are dropped off if the tide is too low to do Pitch 1B. We were dropped off at the large boulder at the base of Pitch 1A.

Pitch 1A (5 bolts) meanders diagonally up and to the right and is extremely chossy and very traverse-y making it equally dangerous for the follower as the leader. Although we were kicking off choss left and right, the bolts looked solid and were in higher quality rock. The book recommends some cams/nuts and although I had some nuts I didn't bother. There are places to throw in some natural pro.

We didn't do pitch 1B (5.9, 9 bolts) but we rapped over it. It's sharper but has higher quality rock and goes more or less straight up to the anchors. Do this one if you can.

The main climb (5.12a, 15 bolts) starts with an overhanging Kalymnos-esque tufa field. There are some solid no-hands rests after the climb returns to more vertical terrain and the tufas disappear. There is a really cool double crack/side-pull feature after a great rest and the climb stays interesting and on you until you clip the anchors high above the bay.

Location 

Facing Tiger Beach, it's to the left on a wall called Pirate's Belly. Can only be accessed via boat.

Lower from the top of pitch 2 with a 70m. Due to the overhang, this will put you about 20 feet below the pitch 1 anchors. Climb back up to your belayer on top rope to get back to the pitch 1 anchors.

You can rap from pitch 1 anchors straight over pitch 1B with a 70m. This will put you on a small ledge over the water where you can rappel on to your boat- tide conditions dependent. The last climber should probably pull the rope from that ledge as there are a lot of trees/bushes the rope could get stuck on. This would be hard to manage from a moving boat. From there, you can rap from a single bolt at the ledge (there was a leaver biner there Spring 2015) or you can wrap up the rope over your shoulders and down-boulder on to your boat.

Protection 

Draws (15).


Photos of Coalition of the Willing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rapping on to the boat.
Rapping on to the boat.
Rock Climbing Photo: View of the bay from the pitch 1 anchors.
View of the bay from the pitch 1 anchors.

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