REI Community
Coal Pit Buttress

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Angering The Angered T 
Buenaventura , The T 
Coalpit Connection T 
Direct North Face T 
DoggyStyle T 
House of Cards T 
King Cobra Corner T 
Misunderstood T 
One Time at Band Camp S 
Organization for the Organized T 
Precious Lost T 
Refugees From Reality T 
Shizznit T 
Stick Man S 
Stiffler's Mom T 
Stifflers Stiffy T 
Stuck a Flute in My S 
Sumatra T 
Tony's Route T 
Unsorted Routes:

Coal Pit Buttress Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 40.5685, -111.73617 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 24,440
Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Orphaned on Aug 31, 2005
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Maura happy to be above the "House of Cards&q...

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  • Description 

    This is the buttress in between the Triangle Wall and Pentapitch. It has lots of black roofs.

    Getting There 

    After passing the pumphouse watch for the gated road on the right (here).

    Park at the pullout and walk down the road or through the woods to cross the stream at a bridge. Walk down canyon until you see a trail branching off on your left just before you reach two large pine trees on the right side of the main trail.

    Hike up the trail (like you're going to the Pentapitch Area).
    But, at the bottom of the talus, punch it straight up; this will put you at the bottom of Stiffler's Mom.

    Or, for a less steep approach, go to Pentapitch and walk east along the base.

    Climbing Season

    Weather station 4.2 miles from here

    19 Total Climbing Routes

    ['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',6],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',5],['Bomb',0]

    Classic Climbing Routes in Coal Pit Buttress

    Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Coal Pit Buttress:
    The Buenaventura    5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 160'   
    Precious Lost   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 7 pitches, 650'   
    Stuck a Flute in My   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 120'   
    DoggyStyle   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 350'   
    Organization for the Organized   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 310'   
    Sumatra   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   
    Stiffler's Mom   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 12 pitches, 1300'   
    Stifflers Stiffy   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
    House of Cards   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13     Trad, 7 pitches, 650'   
    One Time at Band Camp   5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Refugees From Reality   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, 3 pitches, 420'   
    Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Coal Pit Buttress

    Featured Route For Coal Pit Buttress
    Rock Climbing Photo: The "sun in the eyes crux"

    Stifflers Stiffy 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c  Utah : Wasatch Range : ... : Coal Pit Buttress
    The 3rd pitch var. to Stifflers Mom, Try to refrain from climbing the nice flake on the 3rd pitch of Stifflers and shuffle out left. The bolt line is obvious.Continue up Stifflers, or descend via, 3 single rope raps to the ground....[more]   Browse More Classics in Utah

    Comments on Coal Pit Buttress Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By bsmoot
    Jun 11, 2007

    Why are you removing old bolts? You're erasing history.
    By glen kaplan
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 12, 2007
    I really know that TC has some baggage and what not, especially here on this site. But,I think your question is just more fuel for that seems challenging, to me anyway. Maybe a more effective question would be, 'TC, yeah, now that I think about it...I do know a little about the fixed hardware up there eventhough its not in any of the books...let's get together and see whats up before you pull anything else...I care about that history!"

    or something to that affect.

    I'm not trying to be a smart ass or a soul supporter for TC, I just believe there is a better solution...TC is gonna be out there doing his fact, he'll probably be out there more than anyone else...and last time I was up there in that area with him, we did pull some old hardware...let me tell you...the only logical explanation we could come up with as to why it was located where it because back in the hey day when you all were scurrying all over the wasatch looking for hard lines...some misc. hardware was fixed to allow better exploration access (e.g. we found an old, unsafe bolt on top of a ledge wehre snakepit goes near. the only thing we could think of was it was used to check out the blank slab below in hopes of finding that 'hardass' climb that it seems y'all were searching for 20 years ago...)

    again, i do not intend to be a smartass or a dick (with the elder joke)...i've told you before, i respect history too, and the work that you do! while not totally on the same page as TC, i think he is generally within the rules and guidelines on his decisions--at least in this present day and age! ha! that's a jab at you TC...we'll talk about it...out on the rock!
    By bsmoot
    Jun 15, 2007

    My question and comment are IMO very valid, If you want to interpret my post as "challenging" you're free to do so. When someone pulls out old bolts like that your robbing other climbers of important historical information.
    By glen kaplan
    From: Salt Lake City, UT
    Jun 15, 2007
    BSmoot: you are absolutely correct! i hope we are o.k. disagreeing about what you intended to communicate and what I alone have interpreted from your post--i really do not mean to insult or disregard your input. it's weird, since you may consider this as a fuss, but i agree with one should remove any 'important climber or non-climber history anchors' (pun intended) from our backyard!

    what was/is the important climber history behind the bolt that was located above what i know as the 2-bolt slab of snakepit? (let's go out and i will show you exactly what/where)

    i repeat...errr...we could not come up with any 'logical' reasons as to the location or purpose of this bolt--other than as an access bolt to look at the blank slab below...when that blank slab only revealed boring 5.8 to 5.9 (maybe harder if you only go straight up), whoever placed it moved on since it was not the wasatch gem they were hoping for...

    since Tony, or Luke, or Tyler, or me, or anyone else putting new energy into that area cannot find any concrete recorded important history (about FA's or early exploration, etc.) besides what is available from this community, the past and present guidebooks, etc. then...

    we now have a very interesting climbing area that offers beginners and intermediates a fun week's worth of climbing...

    when i moved here 7 years ago...there really was only Pentapitch/surroundings and some non-descript weed wackers that seemed more nostalgic then anything else (i.e. not worth it)...sure, i've come to learn that it really ALL has been climbed before...and i mean all of it...

    how often did/do you climb over there (between the east shoulder of coalpit--aka the tree route and vicinity--all the way west to endless torment and pentatpitch?)

    since you been here a real long time, i expect the answer to this rhetoric to be "i've climbed over there hundreds of times..." i'd like to assume you know what i really mean:

    Yes, let's not remove important historical evidence of our climbing roots.
    However, there seems to be a new "movement" or "consciousness" if you will...and some of our predecessor's mistakes/experiments are gonna need to take a back seat...cause there are alot more minds contributing to this new movement then there were back when these "lone" bolts and anchors were installed...

    If Tony or anyone else were to remove hardware from an actual worthy route...then...let's retaliate...
    By tenesmus
    Jun 19, 2007
    Tony said (and I totally agree),

    "I don't see any point in leaving emergency rappel anchors in place either."

    cough, cough, snake pit... cough cough.

    Not trying to add fuel to the fire either. I'm just saying that Tony told me he put in a bolted belay to bail in the rain off that route.

    My point is not to flame you. We've all had to bail at one time or another and sometimes exploratory rappell anchors should be deleted - even if its a bolt next to a crack.
    By tenesmus
    Jun 20, 2007
    very true.
    By tenesmus
    Jun 21, 2007
    love how tc deleted his posts above. never undersood that.
    By tim naylor
    Nov 9, 2010
    maybe rap anchor for skiers or ice climbers?

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