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Coal as Ice 

WI3 M2-3

Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'
Original: WI3 M2-3 [details]
FA: Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 9 January 2010
New Route: Yes
Season: winter
Page Views: 1,074
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Jan 11, 2010

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Topping out "Coal as Ice".

Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


A nice long pitch (180 to 200 feet, depending on where you belay) of fairly low angle ice, with several steeper bulges and some rock slabs with snow/thin ice to keep things interesting.

Climb the low angle approach ice (around 60 feet of lower angle WI 3) taking care as there might be a fair amount of water flow and funky ice layering. Set up 50-100 feet above this approach pitch at a nice, flat belay spot. Climb up, hopefully more ice than snow and rock. After the last significant bulge of ice, a belay from a cluster of trees on the climber's right works for both the belay and rappel (we left a black sling and rapide for a rappel anchor).

Thick and thin, some rock work, short steps to thick enough ice, trees and short, medium and long screws for pro. More "busy" and much longer than it looks from below.

Worthy diversion from the standard classics in the canyon. Speakin' of classics...

I've seen it before
It happens all the time
You're closing the door
You leave the world behind
You're digging for gold
Yet throwing away
A fortune in feelings
But someday you'll pay

You're as cold as ice, cold as ice, I know


Located in Coalpit Gulch, just uphill and across the gully from the Industrial Wall.

Approach as per the Pentapitch area and/or Industrial Wall. Hike up Coalpit Gulch (making darn sure the avy hazard is low).

Climb the 60 foot low angle approach ice or hike up to the climber's left. Just above this approach pitch, the route starts on the west side of the gully (east facing).

Ice flow is located about 100 feet to the right of the steeper waterfall (ski rappel) past the Industrial Wall.

Rappel from tree(s).

If formed, this route "should" be partly visible from the LCC main road. Pull out into the driveway on the north side of the road to put the binoculars on it.


Take a variety of screws, from stubbies to 17cm. Plenty of slings for trees on the sides of the route. Rock gear might also be useful (placed a handy .5 camalot in a slot) and a small selection of pins might work too.

Photos of Coal as Ice Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Matt startin' the cleanup on isle "Coal as Ic...
Matt startin' the cleanup on isle "Coal as Ic...
Rock Climbing Photo: Approach ice in Coalpit Gulch heading towards &quo...
Approach ice in Coalpit Gulch heading towards &quo...
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading Coal as Ice.  Takin' with Matt's I phone. ...
Leading Coal as Ice. Takin' with Matt's I phone. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Coal as Ice" in Coalpit Gulch.
BETA PHOTO: "Coal as Ice" in Coalpit Gulch.

Comments on Coal as Ice Add Comment
Show which comments
By paintrain
Jan 11, 2010

Rock Climbing Photo: Cool as Ice
Cool as Ice

I'll fess up. This is what I was thinking with the name. But either way.

Fun route. Busier than expected. It feels considerably steeper than it looks (as with most ice).
By mountainsense
Jan 15, 2010

A great find, gentlemen--and here I was, about to commit seppuku due to the abyssmal snow conditions... Hattori

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