Coal as Ice
||Trad, Mixed, Ice, 1 pitch, 180'
|Original: ||WI3 M2-3 [details]|
|FA: ||Brian Cabe and Matt Scullion 9 January 2010|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||997|
|Submitted By: ||Brian in SLC on Jan 11, 2010|
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Topping out "Coal as Ice".
A nice long pitch (180 to 200 feet, depending on where you belay) of fairly low angle ice, with several steeper bulges and some rock slabs with snow/thin ice to keep things interesting.
Climb the low angle approach ice (around 60 feet of lower angle WI 3) taking care as there might be a fair amount of water flow and funky ice layering. Set up 50-100 feet above this approach pitch at a nice, flat belay spot. Climb up, hopefully more ice than snow and rock. After the last significant bulge of ice, a belay from a cluster of trees on the climber's right works for both the belay and rappel (we left a black sling and rapide for a rappel anchor).
Thick and thin, some rock work, short steps to thick enough ice, trees and short, medium and long screws for pro. More "busy" and much longer than it looks from below.
Worthy diversion from the standard classics in the canyon. Speakin' of classics...
I've seen it before
It happens all the time
You're closing the door
You leave the world behind
You're digging for gold
Yet throwing away
A fortune in feelings
But someday you'll pay
You're as cold as ice, cold as ice, I know
Located in Coalpit Gulch, just uphill and across the gully from the Industrial Wall.
Approach as per the Pentapitch area and/or Industrial Wall. Hike up Coalpit Gulch (making darn sure the avy hazard is low).
Climb the 60 foot low angle approach ice or hike up to the climber's left. Just above this approach pitch, the route starts on the west side of the gully (east facing).
Ice flow is located about 100 feet to the right of the steeper waterfall (ski rappel) past the Industrial Wall.
Rappel from tree(s).
If formed, this route "should" be partly visible from the LCC main road. Pull out into the driveway on the north side of the road to put the binoculars on it.
Take a variety of screws, from stubbies to 17cm. Plenty of slings for trees on the sides of the route. Rock gear might also be useful (placed a handy .5 camalot in a slot) and a small selection of pins might work too.
Matt startin' the cleanup on isle "Coal as Ic...
Approach ice in Coalpit Gulch heading towards &quo...
Leading Coal as Ice. Takin' with Matt's I phone. ...
BETA PHOTO: "Coal as Ice" in Coalpit Gulch.
Jan 11, 2010
I'll fess up. This is what I was thinking with the name. But either way.
Fun route. Busier than expected. It feels considerably steeper than it looks (as with most ice).
Jan 15, 2010
A great find, gentlemen--and here I was, about to commit seppuku due to the abyssmal snow conditions... Hattori