REI Community
search
CMC Crag

Select Area...
Chinos Slab, The 
Main Cliff, The 

CMC Crag Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.0922, -71.2141 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,585
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: chinos on Jun 17, 2012  with updates from Dillbag
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Calling all Chinos

Description 

The CMC Crag (Chinos Mountain Club Crag) is located below White's Ledge in Bartlett, NH. The area is made up of two different cliffs 150 yards down hill and left from the Pick O' The Litter Cliff. This is a fun moderate crag with most routes in the 60' range. The climbing here is mixed, so bring a rack to a #3.
This is a great summer time crag with a short (5-10min) approach and the river nearby.

Getting There 

Drive north on 302 to Covered Bridge Lane,which is on the right just before the covered bridge gift shop. Follow Covered Bridge Lane, staying left at all intersections until you see a dirt road on the left, Ricks Road. (Unmarked, but it's a dirt road starting between two I-beams.) Follow Rick's Road for 0.8 miles to pullout on the right at a old logging road. (Just after a pullout on the left hand side over looking the river). From here walk the road for 300' to a small (seasonal) stream on the right (if stream is not visible, aim straight uphill staying to the right of some small moss covered slabs, until reaching the stream bed). Follow the stream bed uphill through some boulders to a 25' slab wall. Walk left along the base (stay low for easier walking) for 200 feet to the base of the Main Cliff crag. (5-10 min approach from the road).

Italic note added 2017-07-09 R Hall, NH Admin. See also Alternate Approach direct to the Chinos Slab cliff.

Climbing Season



Weather station 5.2 miles from here

15 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',7],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in CMC Crag

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for CMC Crag:
CMC Crack   5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 60'   The Main Cliff
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in CMC Crag

Featured Route For CMC Crag
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim belaying Jon on first ascent of CMC Crack

CMC Crack 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  New Hampshire : WM: Bartlett / Jackson Area : ... : The Main Cliff
Start up a blocky right facing corner to a hand crack 10' up. Follow the crack and featured face to a pine tree on a small ledge at half height. From here follow the pockets to a pin and jam the awesome crack to the tree anchor on top....[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of CMC Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Chinos Mountain Club members Jonathan Garlough, Ja...
Chinos Mountain Club members Jonathan Garlough, Ja...

Comments on CMC Crag Add Comment
Show which comments
By jimmi jazz
From: Denver co
Jul 2, 2012
It's a very enjoyable place to go an climb. Most of the cliff is in the shade, so it's a good place to go on those hot days.
By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Jul 12, 2012
Hoot Hoot, hit it up for Brewster Academy Outdoor Skills Alumni knocking out new routes!
By chinos
Jun 26, 2013
George Hurley and friends have added some more lines out here! I will post them soon.
By Jonathan Steitzer
From: West Lebanon, NH
Sep 24, 2014
Checked this place out today after hearing good things about it @ IME. It's great, a fun change of pace in the North Conway area, beautiful spot, really casual. Definitely hit it up. - If you're here and have the time the cairns need some work. The trail up is along the road bordering the river, and the most obvious trail. Very short approach.
By Robert Hall
Administrator
From: North Conway, NH
Jul 9, 2017
3 years after Jonathan's above comment, and I have to say the path up has gotten a bit "leafed in". Following someone who knew the way we intercepted the stream easily about 50 yds up, but maybe not so easy if you've never been there before. If in doubt, try the alternate approach direct to the Chinos Slab (posted in that sub-area's listing as a comment). Pretty impossible to get lost following the huge red blazes!

Marvelous cliff. I had my doubts (small...maybe buggy??) but really nice climbing. The rock is sort of like the "Still In Saigon" Area of Cathedral. CMC Crack on the Main Cliff is a gem; perfect moves, perfectly graded. A 3 or 4 star climb anywhere in the world!

We had this place totally to ourselves. Driving back home at 3:30pm we saw 16 cars at Humphrey's! (Previously I'd never seen more than 6 or 7.)

Also, if you haven't been on "Rick's Road" in a long while you're in for a pleasant surprise. What was once a wet, swampy, drive-over-the-corduroy-logs "adventure" about a tenth of a mile in, is now "paved" with crushed stone and "easy as pie." (Wait...isn't that a climb at Humphrey's???!)



Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About