REI Community
CM: Providence

Select Area...
Main Area 
North Area 
South Area 
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Finger Lakes ORV Trail
A short loop in a wooded landscape. Near Hallsville, Missouri
Blue Loop
Quick singletrack with a few rocky climbs. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Green Loop
Quick and flowing singletrack with minimal climbing. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Binder Lake Trail System
A ride that combines all four loops at Binder Lake. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
Yellow Loop
A fun loop with tight switchbacks and a scenic shoreline section. Near Saint Martins, Missouri
From MP's sister site:

CM: Providence Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 566'
Location: 38.83647, -92.40554 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,615
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016  with updates from Marcus Floyd
Forecast:
Today

67° | 44°
Tuesday

52° | 36°
Wednesday

62° | 46°
Thursday

71° | 38°
Friday

49° | 30°
Saturday

48° | 31°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Slab Town Wall, Providence South

Description 

At this time, over a one hundred established routes trace faint white lines up the variety of crags that tower over the Perche Creek and the Eagle Bluffs Conservation ponds, along the Missouri River. The ponds are often filled with ducks, geese, an occasional heron, and regularly surveyed by eagles from above. Ready made game trails see deer, possum, and fox traffic daily as they zigzag the base of many of the rocky cliffs. A good layer of trees offer a great buffer between the yoga stretching climbers and the bikes racing by, on the Katy Trail below. Hardwood foliage, provides shade through the summer months before bursting into warm fall colors. Autumn winds eventually scatter the impressionistic rainbow over the ground, allowing the winter sun to kiss the limestone grey, streak ridden walls by the afternoon. Towards sunset, the breeze seems to calm, the ducks really start to chatter, the still ponds reflect the orange glow of the heavens, and the reality of the days accomplishments truly starts to take hold. The Providence experience is truly like no other.

Rock Conditions 

From Marcus Floyd,
"Wow, was the first thought that went through my mind when I first found this jewel. The rock quality is quite good for more than a majority of the routes. Like most of the rock walls, along this stretch of the Missouri River, two horizontal chert bands divide the wall into two or three sections. Pockets of broken chert are just par for the course, in these parts! Belayers should stay alert and always wear a climbing helmet. It's not a bad idea to stand off to one side to avoid all possible rock fall."

Weather Conditions 

Most Providence area cliffs receives plenty of sun, year around, so it dries very quick. Plan to experience great climbing conditions spring, fall, and winter, then beat the summer heat by planning to send these lines during the morning hours. Some shade trees provide shelter from the sun at many of the belay areas through the summer.

Getting There 

From Columbia: drive south of Columbia on Providence about 5 miles until you come to a river access sign to Providence landing. Follow the access signs to the parking lot. Head east from the parking lot on the KATY trail. Less than half a mile to the bluffs. Scramble up a steep trail to the base of the bluffs.

Climbing Season



Weather station 8.6 miles from here

78 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',44],['2 Stars',19],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',3],['5.8',9],['5.9',14],['5.10',22],['5.11',10],['5.12',12],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in CM: Providence

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for CM: Providence:
Battress Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 40'   North Area : Battress Area
Juvenile   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Area
Slab Town   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 90'   South Area
Here's Guano in Your Eye   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport   North Area : Battress Area
Sunny Place For Shady People   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   South Area
Drunk Dumb-Ass   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   South Area
Primal   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 55'   North Area : Primal Wall
Skunk Compas   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 2 pitches, 100'   South Area
Providence Crack   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Area
Karp Tool   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 65'   North Area : Battress Area
BatManDu   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 45'   North Area : Battress Area
Baboon (aka Goat's Beard)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   South Area
Bolt It and They Will Come   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   South Area
Regurgitated Bird   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 50'   Main Area
Around Town   5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   South Area
Ancient Sea Friends   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Main Area
Simple Math   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 60'   North Area : Battress Area
Smells Like Bat Spirit    5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   North Area : Battress Area
Slimestone Cowboy   5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 65'   Main Area
Gold Nugget   5.12c/d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   Main Area
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in CM: Providence

Featured Route For CM: Providence
Rock Climbing Photo: Solid crack that sucks up the pro.

Battress Crack 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b  Missouri : CM: Providence : ... : Battress Area
I felt the crack was a traditional 5.7 but others feel it is more like a nine. If you climb cracks, this one is a breeze and sucks up pro. The crux is mid way up and involves stemming smears, coupled with intermitten toe jams. Two bolts were placed at the top for rap anchors, or available to use for top rope....[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Photos of CM: Providence Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Jim Karpowitz and Mike Jenner on Turtle Head 5.9-,...
Jim Karpowitz and Mike Jenner on Turtle Head 5.9-,...
Rock Climbing Photo: Climb the roots along the access trail to Providen...
BETA PHOTO: Climb the roots along the access trail to Providen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Artifact Wall and Fowl Slab Wall
Artifact Wall and Fowl Slab Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: The Batress 5.8, Batress Wall, Providence North
BETA PHOTO: The Batress 5.8, Batress Wall, Providence North
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcus smearing on Say Hello To My Little Friend 5...
Marcus smearing on Say Hello To My Little Friend 5...
Rock Climbing Photo: Scott Riley leading Artifact 5.7, Artifact Wall, S...
Scott Riley leading Artifact 5.7, Artifact Wall, S...
Rock Climbing Photo: Buck getting the FFA of Primal 5.8, Primal Wall, P...
Buck getting the FFA of Primal 5.8, Primal Wall, P...
Rock Climbing Photo: Fall is my favorite time to climb along the Missou...
BETA PHOTO: Fall is my favorite time to climb along the Missou...
Rock Climbing Photo: Marcus on Around Town 5.10d, Pocket Wall, Providen...
Marcus on Around Town 5.10d, Pocket Wall, Providen...
Rock Climbing Photo: Geological features include spires and natural arc...
Geological features include spires and natural arc...
Rock Climbing Photo: Perche Creek feeds into the Missouri nearby Provid...
Perche Creek feeds into the Missouri nearby Provid...
Rock Climbing Photo: Greg Coats and Niel Guinn on Fowl Slab Wall, Provi...
Greg Coats and Niel Guinn on Fowl Slab Wall, Provi...
Rock Climbing Photo: Top of the Pocket Wall, Providence South
Top of the Pocket Wall, Providence South
Rock Climbing Photo: Clip Art 5.9, Slab Town Wall, Providence South
Clip Art 5.9, Slab Town Wall, Providence South
Rock Climbing Photo: Owl Eyes 5.8, Pocket Wall, South Providence
Owl Eyes 5.8, Pocket Wall, South Providence
Rock Climbing Photo: Hiking long the ridge of Eagle Bluffs overlook tra...
Hiking long the ridge of Eagle Bluffs overlook tra...
Rock Climbing Photo: Wildlife is a norm due to the year around spring w...
Wildlife is a norm due to the year around spring w...

Comments on CM: Providence Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Dec 4, 2011
i THINK you're referring to the line i sent back in 2008 called "Iron Clad 5.10a" (due to it's distinctive large iron deposit 1/2 way up the wall), re-named after it was bolted by Kevin Capps in 2010 "regurgitated bird 5.10c
By Jon B
From: Kittredge, CO
Dec 14, 2011
That big piece of iron/rock isn't there anymore. Not sure who took it out but it had to take some muscle!
By Marcus Floyd
Administrator
From: columbia, mo
Feb 17, 2013
Word
By Ed Wade
From: Hermann, MO
Feb 23, 2016
The rock quality here is very sketchy. Don't forget your helmet. The approach is only about an 1/8 mi down the Katy trail. Very steep approach to the cliff base.

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · Contact · About