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CM: Capen Park

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CM: Capen Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.9306, -92.3207 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,102
Administrators: Marcus Floyd, Dave Hug, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Dave Hug on Sep 23, 2016  with updates from Adam Field
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Description 

Small crag with about 20 routes and around 50' tall. Most of the routes are top roped due to the nature of the limestone. Very easy access, so beware of non-climbers at the top of the cliffs.

There are a few bolts on top of the cliff but expect to build natural anchors off the trees up top.

Getting There 

From the University of Missouri - Columbia: Head south on S College Avenue crossing through the intersection with E Stadium Rd. College Avenue becomes S Rock Quarry Rd. Drive past the quarry and Capen Park is down a very short dirt road on your left.

1 minute approach from parking. Walk down to the creek to look up at the routes or just head to the top and drop your ropes if you know what you want to set up.

Guidebook 

Rock Climbing Photo: To purchase, click here


Rock Climbing Photo: By Sean Burns
By Sean Burns

Climbing Season

For the All Locations area.

Weather station 0.8 miles from here

36 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',11],['2 Stars',14],['1 Star',6],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',1],['5.8',6],['5.9',6],['5.10',5],['5.11',4],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',4],['V2-3',2],['V4-5',5],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in CM: Capen Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for CM: Capen Park:
Mister Easy   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13     TR, 75'   Main Area
Three Horns   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, TR, 35'   Main Area
Russian Vault   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 75'   Main Area
playing hookie   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   The Drive-In
Rock Garden   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, TR, 40'   Main Area
The Open Book   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 75'   Main Area
Trundle Tower   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13     Sport, 40'   The Drive-In
Mano Y Mano   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch, 45'   The Drive-In
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in CM: Capen Park

Featured Route For CM: Capen Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Michael McKay stands below Open Book (5.10) at Cap...

The Open Book 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a  Missouri : CM: Capen Park : Main Area
Bouldery start up pocketed limestone to a small alcove. From there head out the roof crack into the "Open Book" dihedral above. Top out to complete the crux!...[more]   Browse More Classics in Missouri

Photos of CM: Capen Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Learning the ropes
Learning the ropes

Comments on CM: Capen Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By James Dolph
From: Columbia, MO
Nov 8, 2008
there are actually 38 posted routes at this park. i'll do my best to add them to mountain project. there is a sport crag located near the main cliff that has 10 sport routes on it ranging from 5.5 to 5.11. the main cliff has 28 routes and all of these can be found at

rockclimbing.com/routes/North_...

this should hold everyone over until i can get the routes posted

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