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Clutch (aka Double Clutch) 
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Clutch (aka Double Clutch) 

Hueco: V7 Font: 7A+

Type:  Boulder, 10'
Original:  Hueco: V8 Font: 7B [details]
FA: Francis Sanzarro?
Page Views: 1,513
Submitted By: Damon Vaughan on Apr 3, 2009

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
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Sticking the big reach. The crux is controlling th...


This is a really fun problem that proved to be a lot more deceiving than I thought at first. Sit start with a left hand pinch and your choice of right handholds. Finagle your way up to two jugs beneath the roof, and do a big move around the roof and top it out.


This problem is the second to the left one on the first obvious huge boulder you come to (a bit past the problem "Godzilla"). There are a couple of warmups to the right.


Two pads would probably do it.

Photos of Clutch (aka Double Clutch) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clutch (AKA Double Clutch), Arthur's Rock.
Clutch (AKA Double Clutch), Arthur's Rock.
Rock Climbing Photo: Me below the boulder problem.
Me below the boulder problem.

Comments on Clutch (aka Double Clutch) Add Comment
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By Jordan A.
Apr 17, 2009

I had always considered this to be V7, but I have some lanky arms and a pretty good reach so this problems is really kinda height dependent. Farther right, as mentioned, there are some good 2s and 3s. Also, some TOUGH problems located on the severely overhanging rock 100 yards right.
By martin tikusis
Apr 23, 2009

I agree. With long arms it may feel more like V7.
By Chip Phillips
From: Broomfield, CO
Apr 8, 2010

FWIW, this problem has historically been known as "Clutch" (not Double Clutch).

There is another problem much further to the right known as Double Stack. Maybe that is part of the confusion.
By csultimate
May 21, 2011

Jordan: your hands hang to your ankles, don't sell yourself short. Thanks to our friends putting some effort into getting Arthur's listed properly on MP, glad to see it getting some of the respect it deserves. BTW: watch the ivy....
By Jordan A.
Jun 16, 2011

Yeah. Watch the ivy...I got it least twice...don't wear shorts.
By Dave Bohn aka "Old Fart"
Jun 16, 2011

I'm not real tall (5' 10") but have a +4 ape index, and this was at the limit of my reach.

I thought the crux was controlling the huge swing after your feet cut loose once you grab the jug above the roof. The first time I stuck the jug, I wasn't ready for the swing and ended up at least 10' down the hill.
By Ben Scott
From: Fort Collins, CO
Jun 17, 2011

The original sequence to this problem was fully contrived to get the 8 points. The starting hold is correct but the following "jugs" to the right were considered off. Starting matched on the mostly lefthand pinch you would move up and right to the chalked gaston. Then left to a worse gaston, high foot and move into an undercling that most people don't even know exists. Then a big move up and left to the slot/horizontal but not the jug to the right. Match the slot and do the hard jump move, especially without that jug for your right hand.

FA: Francis Sanzarro.
By JAtkinson
Dec 6, 2016
rating: V7 7A+

Did this one for the first time today (using the jugs). The first few moves were considerably harder than surpassing the roof which, using the jugs, felt like 5.9 if you're 6 foot tall and have heard of a heel hook.
By Winston Elliott
Mar 27, 2017
rating: V2+ 5+

I think we can all agree at least that Damon Vaugh(a)n is a self-aggrandizing grade-inflator, who obviously has not heard of a heel hook...?

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