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Armed and Dangerous Area (Main Cliff Left)
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Armed and Dangerous, and Off My Medication S 
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Men In White Suits S 
Mentally Disturbed S 
Mesresha S 
Metamorphosis S 
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YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Original:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Mark Sprague 10/05
Page Views: 5,784
Submitted By: lee hansche on May 10, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (174)
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BETA PHOTO: Wonderful, but short jug haul capped by easy climb...


This is another retrobolted route that is now seeing traffic. Originally done on sketchy gear, it wasn't even in the guidebook. Though not as classic as its neighbor to the left (Armed and Dangerous 5.10b), it is well worth doing and though it's a little squeezed in (as the name suggests) it will thin the crowds at this popular spot.

Climb the line of weakness to the right of Armed and Dangerous, following Metamorphosis (5.8+), then heading straight up the steep wall above to the old anchors of Armed and Dangerous. Big moves on good holds for the most part and nice clean falls.


Just right of Armed and Dangerous 5.10b.


  • bolts to anchor.

Photos of Clusterphobia Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Clusterphobia: August 2012
Clusterphobia: August 2012
Rock Climbing Photo: Adam displaying the tall people's beta.
Adam displaying the tall people's beta.
Rock Climbing Photo: Art Mooney on clusterphobia...
Art Mooney on clusterphobia...

Comments on Clusterphobia Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Sep 22, 2017
By M Sprague
From: New England
Aug 15, 2007

Not a retro job, to my knowledge, though it most likely was top roped on since A&D was put in, as it runs directly to the old anchors.

Somewhat chossy, but fun steep flakes and pockets. ..a bit height dependent
By Ladd
Nov 11, 2007
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

I took a bit of an unexpected whipper on this climb Saturday...
A foothold about the size of Nalgene exploded off the cliff while I was using it to pull the upper lip, I don't think it changes the climb at all as it was off right a bit an into the rotten rock, apparently.
By Jay Knower
From: Campton, NH
Nov 12, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

I think this is the best route on the wall. It's much better than Armed and Dangerous, IMO. It also felt hard for 5.10d. The move at the start of the steep part requires 5.11 burl.
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Jan 29, 2010

FA Mark Sprague 10/05
By Michael Buchanan
Jun 18, 2011
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

If you're tall, the burl move will be chill. Its pretty much a 10a jug haul after that. Super fun.
By Matt Wilson
From: Vermont, USA
Apr 22, 2013

How does the steep part of this compare to, say, Bullwinkle goes Ballistic?
By S. Neoh
Apr 22, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

For most people, significantly harder. For me (a shortie), the crux of this route requires a good deal of core strength and precise footwork.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Oct 11, 2013

Finally got on this recently and really enjoyed it. It's a shame the 1st half of the route isn't more memorable like the first half of A+D or else the entire climb would be a classic, IMO.
By S. Neoh
Oct 11, 2013
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

It should be possible to start off A&D then link into Clusterphobia, hitting the crux of both enroute. But use your best judgement and rope management.
By Matt Levine
From: Concord, NH
Oct 12, 2013

That's the plan for next time! Thanks!
By Nick Grant
From: Natick, MA & Tamworth, NH
Jul 28, 2014

One of the quick clips at the top is broken. The gate on the biner has lost its spring action.
By Greg DeMatteo
From: W. Lebanon, NH
Aug 3, 2014

I linked the start of A&D to this last week for a very enjoyable climb. The rope is in a bit of an awkward spot as you're pulling the crux but so long as you're smart about where your legs are it's not a problem. Definitely a 5.10+ move getting to that second bolt on the headwall either way. And one of the quick links on the anchor is indeed failing the Walt Shipley biner test.
By Dom R
From: Estes Park, Colorado
Sep 14, 2014

If you're in the area it's a great addition to your list of things to do, really fun pumpy jug hauling on a face that, once you look at it while lowering, you will realize is much steeper than you thought. I don't remember gaining the second bolt to be a "burl fest" as some have said, I found the movement was great just not necessarily the best holds maybe. Im also 5'11" so that could be a factor.
By Nick Brennan
From: Concord, NH
Jun 22, 2017
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I'm a little under 5'8" and didn't find this appreciably harder than A&D. Seems like a really good 10+ for a 5.9+/10a leader.
By feifei
3 hours ago

For a 5'4 person, the match at the crux was pretty hard. Going after the next hold after matching wasn't easy either with minimal feet.
By S. Neoh
18 mins ago
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

^^^ After said match (which I have to do as well), I hop my right foot up to a good foothold then go to the next good hold with my right hand. Quite a bit of body tension required, however. Don't despair, many taller folks have trouble with this sequence too.

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