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a2. The Uberfall - right
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Clover 

YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 95'
Original:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b PG13 [details]
FA: Paul Rubin and Marc Cassler
Page Views: 1,151
Submitted By: David Kider on Sep 11, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (31)
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The top 3/4 of Clover.

Description 

Starts on the face between Laurel and Rhododendron. Not much in the way of protection. Follow the right-facing flake. The crux is probably at about 40 feet. The fingers then get thin and slippery. I ended up just going to the chains on Laurel.

Location 

Between Laurel and Rhododendron.

Protection 

Standard rack, but the route is thin on gear.


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By Rory Nugent
From: Closter, NJ
Oct 7, 2013

I found it helpful to place a small cam as a TR directional about halfway between Laurel and Rhododendron. Either walk right from the chains of Laurel or down-climb to the ledge below the chains on Rhododendron.
By Systematic
Feb 22, 2016
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Tricky start leads to very satisfying climbing with comparatively virgin rock. Protection is adequate after about ~10'. Mostly tiny and finger cams, but a larger piece is also useful. Some cruxy thin climbing above protection is very exciting, though the resulting fall doesn't seem dangerous (though longish).
By Gunkiemike
Apr 14, 2016

The delicate steps leftward along the slopey ramp 10 ft up can be protected with a blue Ball Nut. First time I placed that piece on lead - woo hoo! A nice lead to test where my head is at (the upper crux is a bit committing).
By SethG
Dec 23, 2016

The gear is fine. I placed a micronut in the opening flakes. Then there's a bomber small cam placement for the move to the ledge. Good pro the rest of the way.

Not a bad little climb.

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