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Clough State Park

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unsorted Clough State Park routes 

Clough State Park Rock Climbing 


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Location: 43.09379, -71.65538 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 9,938
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Brad Fauteux on Jan 7, 2016
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Miles trying hard on a wet project!

Overview 

At this climbing spot you will find all sorts of routes, from crimpy lowball v2s, to roof projects, to slopey arete 12 foot boulders and even top rope crack climbs. There are opportunities to boulder and to top rope in the Park. In the boulder and cliff areas there is a mixture of sun and shade. There are some routes inside caves which tend to stay dry, or stay wet and damp.

In the warmer months the mosquitoes tend to get obnoxious. Bring Bug Repellent! (Not as bad as Pawtuckaway)

The area is still currently being developed and as far as I know the cliff faces have yet to be climbed.
Rock quality is good. You have to watch out for breakage of big flakes and small crimp jugs though. The rock type is granite.

This area of Clough State Park is very popular among people and their dogs, most of the time these people just walk across the dam and back and then leave.
Clough State Park also tends to be popular amongst snow-mobiles, dirt bikers, and mountain bikers.

Getting There 

At the intersection with 3 Corners of Route 77, right near Pages Country Store and Deli, you are going to turn down the Road opposite of Jewett Road. the road is called Route 13 or Stark Highway N. You are going to travel down this road for a mile or two until you see a small gas station on your right. They usually have really good prices, but unfortunately they do not have a store and do not take cash, closest place to get beer would be Pages Country Store.

Take the right as soon as you pass the gas station on to Winslow Road. There will be a decently sharp curve in the road where Winslow changes to Stark Lane. You will then follow Stark lane around another few curves until you come to a stop sign. Take a left at the stop sign which will put you on Mansion Road. Follow Mansion road for about two miles and you will see a sign for Clough state park on your right. After you pass the sign you will turn right onto Everett Dam Road.

You will stay on this road until you see a big wooden gate and sign for Clough State Park. This is not the right entrance to get to the climbing. As soon as you pass this spot the road changes yet again and is then called Clough Park Road. As you travel a few hundred yards more, you will see a parking lot with yellow gates and a small building used by the park management. This is the right entrance.

When you park you will have to cross the dam all the way to the other side and you will see pick-nick tables a grill and a gazebo. Through the trees you will start seeing tall cliffs and boulders.(This cliff is known as Raymond Cliff) There have been bouldering routes established to the left of the gazebo and also to the right of the gazebo.

To get to the boulders on the left you will have to go over a small cable fence and down a small rocky slope and into the woods. These boulders are the easiest to get to and are known as the Welcome Boulders of the South End. The South End Area turns into the Piscataquog State Forest.

In order to get to the boulders to the right of the gazebo you will walk down a gravel road past another gate and you should see giant orange buoys. Once you get to the buoys turn into the woods and follow them into the heart of the boulder field.
Once you come to the end of the buoys and look right you should see a giant boulder that towers over others off in the distance, this boulder is known as Mammoth Rock or the John Clough Boulder. The front face of this boulder is called Remedy. It has been bouldered and top roped before and is about 25-30 feet tall.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.0 miles from here

69 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',7],['3 Stars',29],['2 Stars',22],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',16],['V2-3',14],['V4-5',17],['V6-7',5],['V8-9',2],['V10-11',2],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Clough State Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Clough State Park:
Ascension   V1 5     Boulder, 15'   The Island Boulder
Timeline   V1 5     Boulder, 12'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Final Fantasy   V2-3 5+     Boulder, 15'   The Island Boulder
Coyotes   V3 6A     Boulder, 15'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Dragon's Back    V3 6A     Boulder, 9'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Perry's Problem   V3-4 6A+     Boulder, 8'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Fire   V4 6B     Boulder, 11'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Lord of the Flies   V4 6B     Boulder, 15'   The Island Boulder
Vitality   V4-5 6B+     Boulder, 8'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
The Lone Wolf   V5- 6C     Boulder, 10'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
The Devil's Steps   V5 6C     Boulder, 20'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Natural Flow   V5 6C PG13     Boulder, 17'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Coyote Killer   V6 7A     Boulder, 15'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Tears Of A Lone Wolf   V7 7A+     Boulder, 15'   unsorted Clough State Park ...
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Clough State Park

Featured Route For Clough State Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Another angle of this sweet arete.

Fire V4 6B  New Hampshire : Southern NH and Seacoast : ... : unsorted Clough State Park ...
This fun arete is full value, sit start, uses the arete and the crack on the face, interesting moves and a good topout to finish. Sit start under the mini overhang/bulge with both hands in the crack. Figure out how to get off the ground (kinda tricky), make a hard slap to a sloper crimp around the bulge, grab the arete and a perfect edge, then figure out how to get up to the top using the crack out left and the arete, make a crux high bump on the arete then power to the lip, it'@SEMICOL...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of Clough State Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Thanks google.
Thanks google.
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading towards Mammoth Rock and The Movie Gallery...
Leading towards Mammoth Rock and The Movie Gallery...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Gazebo. Enter the forest at the left to get to...
The Gazebo. Enter the forest at the left to get to...
Rock Climbing Photo: The view as you approach the boulders.
The view as you approach the boulders.
Rock Climbing Photo: A picture of Mammoth Rock/ The Remedy Boulder.
A picture of Mammoth Rock/ The Remedy Boulder.
Rock Climbing Photo: The giant Mammoth Rock
The giant Mammoth Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Boulders!
Boulders!
Rock Climbing Photo: A photo of one of the first climbs Jake Perry and ...
A photo of one of the first climbs Jake Perry and ...

Comments on Clough State Park Add Comment
Show which comments
By Kevin Macartney
From: Laramie, WY
Apr 28, 2016
I'm really glad someone else found an interest in this place. A few friends and I climbed there back around '07 to '09 ish and the pins on top of what you call Mammoth rock had been there a quite a while before that I'm sure. I remember going to check out the cliffs once, but I don't think we actually climbed anything that day, ha. Have fun out there!
By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Apr 30, 2016
Thanks Kevin, my friends and I are putting up new climbs just about every outing. The place seems like it has almost endless possibilities!
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
Apr 30, 2016
Yeah Kevin this place is a sweet little spot for sure, although the rock is pretty sharp. So much potential it's awesome!
By Eli
From: Lives in a truck
May 2, 2016
Really impressed with the work you guys are putting in out there, keep it up!
By Jake Perry
From: Concord, NH
May 2, 2016
Thanks Eli!
By matthewWallace
From: Sandwich, NH
Oct 22, 2016
How quickly does this place dry after rain?
By Brad Fauteux
From: Henniker, NH
Oct 22, 2016
The majority of the boulders are tucked away in the forest, making it hard for sunlight to penetrate through the trees to dry the rocks. I'd say 2 days after rain. Once all the leaves fall and such maybe a little sooner.

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