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Routes in Northern Dinosaur Egg
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Cloud Walker T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Rehatch T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Rescratch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | M. Engle, D. Hare, 1989 |
| Page Views: | 752 total · 3/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Apr 13, 2004 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Access Issue: New Emergency Closure
Details
Emergency Raptor Closure of Der Freischutz and surrounding formations:
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
OSMP is enacting a closure to protect cliff nesting raptors at Der Freischutz on Dinosaur Mountain — please see the attached map. The closure includes the BUBBLE and the Dinosaur Eggs formations.
On Wednesday of this week, OSMP staff and volunteers observed that the prairie falcon pair that typically occupies Bear Creek Spire had relocated to the Der Freischutz formation.
The pair’s timing is in the ballpark that if they succeed and fledge young, the formation will open with other closures on or about July 31st.
As a result of the move, OSMP is lifting the closure for Bear Creek Spire.
Those approaching Overhang Rock from Mallory Cave trail will need to approach from Bear Creek Spire going forward or until Bear Canyon trail is reopened.
Description
This is an intriguing line which looks like a mellow romp up a hanging slab. However, due to the approach it is hard to assess this one until you are right on it. It winds up being a full value "sport" climb best done with a bit of gear and a propensity not to fall. Find this one on the West side of North Dinosaur Egg.
The approach can take a bit of figuring out. You can approach this via the first pitch of Rehatch, 5.5, on the E face of North Dinosaur Egg from the gully between the first & second strata of Dinosaur Mt. via the Bear Canyon trail. It can also be approached from the gully between the second & third strata up the gully East of Stonehenge. However, this requires traverse an approach pitch either around the East or West side of the lower South chunk of North Dinosaur Egg. Either of these starts with a scramble up a wide crack at a huge ole eye bolt on the West side of North Dinosaur Egg. If you use the East traverse, follow a 5.5 line of wavy rock around curving left and into the upper chimney of Rehatch. Expect rope drag. If you try the West traverse (perhaps it could be named "Bowel Incontinence"), follow an awkward, line of huecos with questionable pro of cams in huecos.
When you finally get to the climb, you will find it is surprisingly vertical to start with a rising, left-angling, exposed, traverse above a large overhang (hence the name?). Thus, despite relatively closely-spaced bolts, it is probably best not to fall until past the 4th bolt (especially on lead). Follow sporadic pebbles (somewhat reminiscent of the better-quality P1 of Velvet Elvis) and edges. The crux is probably between the second & third bolts. Some holds are friable, and the route is still cleaning up (we broke off at least 4 holds). Once past the 5 bolts, the difficulty & angle eases significantly, but it becomes a bit run out. Continue angling left and find an overlap with cracks for small cams. At about 120-130 feet out, you reach a bolt and pin anchor on top of a ridge.
Rappel West 120 feet to the ground. You can make it to 4th class terrain with a single 60m rope. There may be other anchors, but we didn't find any better ones.
Expect full value! Yee haw!
The approach can take a bit of figuring out. You can approach this via the first pitch of Rehatch, 5.5, on the E face of North Dinosaur Egg from the gully between the first & second strata of Dinosaur Mt. via the Bear Canyon trail. It can also be approached from the gully between the second & third strata up the gully East of Stonehenge. However, this requires traverse an approach pitch either around the East or West side of the lower South chunk of North Dinosaur Egg. Either of these starts with a scramble up a wide crack at a huge ole eye bolt on the West side of North Dinosaur Egg. If you use the East traverse, follow a 5.5 line of wavy rock around curving left and into the upper chimney of Rehatch. Expect rope drag. If you try the West traverse (perhaps it could be named "Bowel Incontinence"), follow an awkward, line of huecos with questionable pro of cams in huecos.
When you finally get to the climb, you will find it is surprisingly vertical to start with a rising, left-angling, exposed, traverse above a large overhang (hence the name?). Thus, despite relatively closely-spaced bolts, it is probably best not to fall until past the 4th bolt (especially on lead). Follow sporadic pebbles (somewhat reminiscent of the better-quality P1 of Velvet Elvis) and edges. The crux is probably between the second & third bolts. Some holds are friable, and the route is still cleaning up (we broke off at least 4 holds). Once past the 5 bolts, the difficulty & angle eases significantly, but it becomes a bit run out. Continue angling left and find an overlap with cracks for small cams. At about 120-130 feet out, you reach a bolt and pin anchor on top of a ridge.
Rappel West 120 feet to the ground. You can make it to 4th class terrain with a single 60m rope. There may be other anchors, but we didn't find any better ones.
Expect full value! Yee haw!
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