|Type:||Trad, Sport, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade III|
|Original:||YDS: 5.10 French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]|
|FA:||Mike Strassman, Jackie Carroll|
|Season:||Late Fall to Early Spring|
|Submitted By:||greg k on Apr 18, 2011|
|Caution: Human and Drug Trafficking MORE INFO >>>|
|Comments on Cloud Man Got Angry||Add Comment|
|Show which comments —
By Clay Mansfield
Mar 17, 2013
|Fun climbing in a spectacular place. Rack can be pared down to set of stoppers and singles of cams up to BD #2 or maybe even BD #1, and ~12 draws.|
By Paul Zander
From: Tucson, AZ
May 18, 2016
rating: 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Had fun on this route, first time up Babo, so I can't say how it compares to other routes, but I felt the lower section before I'itoi's patio was pretty good, less so above that. Overall the route was mellower than I expected, and I don't think a solid 5.9 leader would have trouble on it. The description here is pretty good, just a few things to add.
Locating the route is a bit challenging. The purple sling is still there, just very faded to almost gray. To find the route (from the west/Great Ramp) traverse across Lion's Ledge until it suddenly drops down and the wall steepens. This route starts about 40 feet before the steep downhill.
Pitch 1 was maybe the spiciest and felt just as hard as pitches 2 and 4 to me. The crack section would be very nice if it wasn't so full of grass.
Pitch 2 roof is extremely well protected and felt 5.9-. The bolt above is impossible to see until you are right on it. It is about 10 feet left and 25 feet above where you turn the roof.
Pitch 3 is a nice long bolted 5.8 and the rock is pretty good.
Pitch 4 is another nice long pitch with a lot of bolts. Felt 5.9 to me.
The remainder of the route was three wandering piches with lots of easy 5th. We did the last bolted pitch of I'itoi Dance as described here (5.10a/b?), but there are lots of options to keep the grade under 5.10 on the upper section. Not sure how the OP was able to link that bolted pitch to the top. We found it to be about 280 feet. But maybe by going further right than we did you can unrope earlier.
We used a #3 a couple times, but it's optional. Single rack is perfect. Lots of draws for the 4th pitch.