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YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jon Stewart, Ryan Sund Summer 07
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 166
Submitted By: adam winslow on Aug 18, 2010  with updates from Topher Dabrowski and 3 more

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (10)
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BETA PHOTO: The Martyr Closeout Closeout Direct Good Vibration...


Same start as GOOD VIBRATIONS. Traverse left under the large roof using the horizontal roof crack. Clip a bolt and turn the roof on the left. Follow a clean seam to the top anchors.

A direct variation (5.9) can be climbed that ascends straight up the wall to the corner of the roof on good holds.

Note that the first gear placement on the original and direct lines is a good 20' above the belay.


Cams to 2"
Doubles in the 0.75" to 1.5" range

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By Topher Dabrowski
Mar 19, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

We had a ton of fun on this route. Small cams on the way up to the traverse then save your BD 0.5 to BD 0.75 cams for the traverse. A nice 0.4 protects the move from out of the roof and the bolt helps keep the rope from dragging in the crack. A BD 0.75 or 1.0 and BD 2.0 should get you through the finish.

Don't miss this one!
By Topher Dabrowski
May 22, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Climbed and added the direct variation today. I'm sure that someone has climbed this variation before as it is too obvious a line not to have been done.
By Micah Klesick
From: Vancouver, WA
Aug 15, 2015
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Fun route. I walked a long slung .75 along the traverse to reduce the rope drag. Tricky move pulling past the roof. Definitely one of the better routes here.
The direct variation is just as good IMO, and should be done as well. And has much less rope drag.

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