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Closed Course 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 60'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: si
Page Views: 5,532
Submitted By: Rob Dillon on Apr 29, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Chris on lead topping out on Closed Course (on the...

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is the chimney behind 'Slice and Dice'. It protects (!) with TCU's in a finger crack, so it seems like a good way to get to know this kind of climbing without the typical runouts found in most such fissures. I haven't tried it straight in (w/o using the back wall), but this would be a whole lot harder.

Further up this corridor one encounters a wavy, podded R-facing flake which we climbed for 100' or so. This has recently sprouted a lower set of anchors (right where it gets wide, funny) and a plaque: "Renegades of Funk, 5.10". Owing to the wing-like look of the feature, we had considered "Bernoulli Effect" as a name, but it was getting late to be sitting around carving on rocks.

Protection 

Finger stuff to .75 Camalot. 2-pin anchor. Plaque.


Photos of Closed Course Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Good place for a dog
Good place for a dog
Rock Climbing Photo: looking out .. an having fun
looking out .. an having fun
Rock Climbing Photo: snowe day hide out?
snowe day hide out?

Comments on Closed Course Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joshua Merriam
From: Boulder, CO
Nov 6, 2007

I climbed Renegades this past weekend and thought the anchors were in a strangely chosen spot. Too bad they aren't higher.
By Rob Dillon
Nov 6, 2007

Go ahead and climb up to the old hex or whatever it was and take care of it. Thanks!
By Kurt Prond
From: Bozeman, MT
Jun 5, 2011

Replaced the anchor slings on 5/30/11
By slim
Administrator
Oct 25, 2011
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

i thought this was a really fun little route - definitely worth doing. as mentioned above, good intro to this type of climbing without the usual runouts. not too often that you get to plug a bunch of tiny cams into a 5.8 in the desert.
By geoff georges
From: Seattle, Wa.
May 2, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

several in the .3, .4, .5 size and up to #2 near the top. Bolted anchor I think ?
By blue ribbon
From: Indian Creek, UT
Nov 24, 2016
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I believe the current anchor is a modern bolt and a FP with tat. This could use chains.