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Coffin Buttress
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C.P.O.D. T 
Closed Casket Variation S 
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Coffin, The T 
Exsqueeze Me S 
No Star Tuesday T 
Rightside Variation T 
Strewn Masters of Hore S 
Viewing, The S 

Closed Casket Variation 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E4 5c

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Original:  YDS: 5.11c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Not really Important
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 248
Submitted By: Anonymous Coward on Mar 22, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (24)
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Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed MORE INFO >>>


This is the direct start to "the viewing" This route now makes "The Viewing" separate and independent from "the Coffin Crack". Some people have rated it 5.11a, other say 5.12a. It is well protected, and gives "the viewing" a complete run for your money.


Two bolts and 1 piton in the horizontal crack protect the direct start to "the viewing"

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By Vince Romney
Jun 26, 2004
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a

I did this today, and definitely feel it really does create a "complete" route for The Viewing. Fun face moves up through the junction with the Viewing. It is definitely thin through the crux, but not too thin. I'll guess .11b/c. Thanks to whoever put this up!
Jan 8, 2006

I was climbing the coffin just after the new hardware appeared and a long time local was there also. It was told to me that the line that was now newley eqquipped with fixed hardware had been done long ago free without the fixed hardware. I was just wondering if the one who placed the new hardware looked for any kind of permission and if it was done ground up as was the the "the viewing". I had top roped the line before it was bolted and thought it fun but not needing bolts. To be more to the point, this is not a new route and is not a first ascent, maybe that is why the f.a. info says "not important".
By Over The Hill
From: USA
Mar 17, 2006

Great Questions ASENDR. To answer your questions: The FA (specifically Gordon) was asked about this variation before anything was done. He saw no problem with this. It was added to hopefully clean up the bottle neck that occurs when people climb the regular version of the viewing. I once waited three hours for a party to clean gear from the coffin while they TR'ed the viewing (poor form in my opinion).
The FA was listed "not important" because the main route is more important than the variation. It was not done for personal glory, or to see a name in a guidebook, I prefer to avoid that. If the FA is important to you, by all means claim it as yours! I am sure that no one cares. If this route was led sans bolts, I want to shake the hand of that person. I am sure they set off metal detectors everywhere for the steel nuts they carry between their legs!!! The variation makes for an independent line from the coffin crack, and can still be climbed any way you choose. I hope this helps answer some questions.
By tenesmus
Feb 16, 2007

fantastic and safe lead. Nice work.
By Ryan Brough
From: Arvada, Colorado
Sep 21, 2007
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

I unwittingly started up this variation, thinking that it was the start to the Viewing. My guidebook was at home, so I just went for it. I remember feeling really insecure for 5.10a slab, but just thought that it was because I hadn't been climbing for a week because I had been fighting a nasty cold. I wished that I had brought better edging shoes though.
By Tradiban
Nov 11, 2009

Hard start for sure to the pin in the seam, 5.11ish. The rest was classic granite slab going about 5.10+. Still a touch run out even with all the bolts. A lead sans bolts would be a solo.
By John Steiger
Sep 4, 2011
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Maybe not as sustained as some of the other 11-graded slabs around, but, wow, what a pitch. Very stiff opening moves followed by a long, moderate but quite spicy slab, all over impeccable rock with lots of air. Not to reignite an old controversy (well, maybe so), but I'’m skeptical that someone has led the start without the current hardware, particularly since no one has come forward to say so, other than ASENR'’s 2006 posting.

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